Italian Dolomites Travel Guide

Best Time for Hiking in the Dolomites

The best time to hike in the Dolomites is from end of June until the end of September. 

That’s when the mountain huts (hütte, rifugio) are open for overnights and food. It’s also when most cable cars are in operation. Many hikes in the Dolomites begin or end with an aerial cableway (chairlift, gondola etc…). And, if you’re planning on getting around by bus, there are more connections and buses running during high season. 

August is a very busy month in the Dolomites. Italians are on vacation, and there are lots of families on popular trails. Weather is generally excellent with the occassional thunderstorm.

September is a wonderful month to hike in the Dolomites. It’s still busy, but not as packed as August. We spent 3 weeks hiking in September, and the weather was great 90% of the time. That other 10% involved a snow blizzard and some rain. Mountain huts are open, cable cars are running, and busses are frequent. Read Next: Hiking in the Dolomites in September.

October is also a promising month to travel to the Dolomites, especially for fall colors. If you decide to travel to the Dolomites in October, we recommend renting a car. Many huts will already be closed for the season, though not all. And, many chairlfits and gondolas will also be closed (by end of September). So, October promises quiet trails, beautiful colors, but less convenience.

Read Next: Best Day Hikes in the Dolomites

Best Time for Skiing in the Dolomites

If your aim is to ski, the season begins in December and ends in April.  In November 2019, the ski slopes already opened up in Alta Badia. However, if you’re planning an international trip, stick to January and February to be safe. 

When You Shouldn’t Travel to the Dolomites

Early Spring. Traveling to the Dolomites in May is hit or miss since the weather is unpredictable. It can still snow, but it’s not “ski season.” Because the region’s many chairlifts aren’t in operation, hiking is limited. Also, many hotels and restaurants are closed, making it difficult to find places to eat. 

The Dolomites are located in 5 different provinces (within 3 regions) in Northeastern Italy. One province, South Tyrol (in German: Südtirol; in Italian: Alto Adige), was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire prior to World War I. German continues to be the primary language spoken in this region. When traveling and hiking through South Tyrol, every street, advertisement, natural area, mountain hut, etc… is written in both German and Italian. Throughout this guide, we will use both names to avoid any confusion.

Another language that you may encounter is Ladin, a romance language spoken in the provinces of South Tyrol, Trentino, and Belluno, by the Ladin people. In Alta Badia, you’ll see signage and names (e.g. towns, mountain huts) in three languages: Ladin, German, and Italian. 

There are many ways to experience the Dolomites. For those that want to experience the culture of the valleys and the towns, we recommend staying in farm stays. For those seeking a luxurious getaway, look no further than the region’s 5-star spa hotels. And for hikers who want to stay in the mountains, we recommend sleeping in mountain huts (rifugio, Hütte).

Roter Hahn Farm Stays (South Tyrol Only)

Roter Hahn (Red Rooster) is a trademark given to farmhouses in South Tyrol that provide quality holiday accommodations. There are 1,600 Roter Hahn farms in the region. The goal of Roter Hahn is to put people in touch with the rural world of South Tyrol. Another objective is to help farmers establish another occupation and stream of income.

We stayed in three Roter Hahn Farms and had outstanding experiences each time. The hosts were hospitable, the rooms were clean, and overall the prices were cheaper than other accommodation options.

To look for farm stays, use the Roter Hahn website. There’s a form, next to each farmhouse page, that lets you reach out and request a reservation. If the farmhouse has availability for the date(s) given, they’ll reach out to you via email.

Wellness Hotels

If farm stays sound too rustic, and you’re in the mood for a real treat, check out some of these superb wellness hotels. Each hotel has an outstanding breakfast buffet and a half-board offering. Based on our personal experience, we can highly recommend:

Dorfhotel Beludei in Santa Cristina, Val Gardena is for the epicureans. The food is simply exquisite here, teetering into the realm of high art. Other highlights include the lovely wellness area and the bedroom views of Langkofel. Guests of Beludai can join guided hikes for free.

Hotel Col Alto in Corvara, Alta Badia is for the spa lovers. The integrated sauna and wellness area is lavish. Guests are spoiled with five saunas, an indoor swimming pool, a whirlpool, and relaxation rooms with waterbeds and heated lounge chairs. Rooms are divinely comfortable as well.

Hotel Ciasa Soleil in La Villa, Alta Badia is for the sunset enthusiasts. This thoughtfully designed hotel gifts you with spectacular sunsets, which you can enjoy from either the dining room, or the outdoor hot tub and terrace. Also, Ciasa Soleil offers weekly hiking tours, which you can join for free.

Mountain Huts

One of the best things about hiking in the Dolomites is that you can sleep in rifugios (Schutzhaus, Hütte). These mountain huts are located directly on the trails and enable you to stay on the mountain, without having to carry camping gear. Whether you want to break up a longer trek, or simply wake up in the Dolomites, sleeping in a charming Hütte is a rewarding experience. The Dolomites have a vast network of rifugios, which allows you to hike from one hut to another. It’s important to make reservations in advance. Here are some hut to hut itineraries for inspiration:

• 3 Day Trek around Tre Cime di Lavaredo 
• 3 Day Rosengarten Trek

Traveling to the Dolomites with a Car

Getting to the Italian Dolomites usually requires a multi-leg journey. Internationaly travelers typically fly to the Venice Airport, pick up their rental car, and drive to the Dolomites.

Here are all the closest airports to the Dolomites. Depending on where you land, it can take anywhere from 2.5 to 4 hours to reach the Dolomites.

• Munich International Airport – Germany: 3.5 hours
• Malpensa Airport  – Milan, Italy: 4 hours
• Marco Polo International Airport – Venice, Italy: 3 – 4 hours
• Valerio Catullo Airport – Verona, Italy: 2.25 hours
• Innsbruck Airport – Austria: 2.5 hours

Traveling to the Dolomites without a Car

We’ve traveled to the Dolomites with and without a car. A car affords more flexibility, but you can definitely travel to the Dolomites without renting a car. If you’re flying to the Venice Airport, take the Express Bus from the airport to Cortina D’Ampezzo. From here, you can rely on buses to get to major Dolomites destinations like Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Cinque Torri, Alta Badia, etc…

If you’re traveling to the Dolomites from neighboring countries, you should take a train to Bolzano (Bozen). From Bolzano, it’s really easy to get to Eggental and Val Gardena with public transit. Use these sites to help plan your trip:

• Dolomiti Bus –  transit schedules for the province of Belluno (Veneto Region)
• SAD bus site – transit schedules for South Tyrol (Alto Adige)

Dolomites Hikes Starting in Alta Badia

• Easy Day Hike: Armentara Meadows 
• Moderate Day Hike: Rifugio Fanes 
• Moderate Day Hike: La Villa to Colfosco via Rifugio Puez 
• Difficult Day Hike: Lake Pisciadu 

Dolomites Hikes Starting in Val Gardena

• Best Hikes in Val Gardena
• Easy/Moderate Day Hike: Seceda to Regensburger Hütte in Val Gardena 
• Moderate/Difficult Day Hike: Rifugio Stevia and Col dala Pieres
• Moderate Day Hike: Resciesa to Rifugio Brogles and Seceda
• Day Hike, or 2-Day Hike: Seiser Alm to Tierser Alpl Mountain Hut

Dolomites Hikes Starting in Val Di Funes

• Easy Day Hike: Adolf Munkel Trail

Dolomites Hikes Starting in Carezza and Nova Levante

• 3 Day Trek: Rosengarten Traverse

Dolomites Hikes Starting near Cortina d’Ampezzo

• Day Hike: The glacier lake Lago di Sorapiss

Dolomites Hikes Starting Near Sexten / Misurina

• Day, or Overnight Hike: Drei Zinnen (Tre Cime di Lavaredo) Loop Trail

There are 10 major parks in the Dolomites. Some hikes traverse through several parks. There’s no fee to enter these areas. You can concentrate your time in a single area, or easily explore several parks like we did. If you’re interested in buying trail maps, we recommend Tappeiner. 

1. Dolomiti Bellunesi National Park
2. Dolomiti D’Ampezzo Natural Park
3. Dolomiti Friulane Natural Park
4. Naturpark Fanes – Sennes – Prags (Fanes – Senes – Braies Natural Park)
5. Naturpark Drei Zinnen, aka Sexten Dolomites (Tre Cime Natural Park)
6. Naturpark Puez – Geisler (Puez – Odle Natural Park)
7. Naturpark Schlern – Rosengarten (Sciliar – Catinaccio Natural Park)
8. Bletterbach Natural Monument
9. Paneveggio – Pale di San Martino Natural Park
10. Adamello Brenta Natural Park

Italian Custom: Coperto

Coperto means cover charge. It’s the fee you pay to sit at a table in a restaurant. Generally, the fee is somewhere between 1 EUR and 5 EUR. This may, or may not be advertised on the menu. You generally won’t pay a coperto in this region of Italy. During our trip, the only place a coperto was added to the bill was in the city of Bolzano.

Austrian Etiquette

Prost (Cheers) – In Austrian culture, it’s really important to make purposeful eye contact when you toast.  Say “Prost” or “Zum Wohl.” You should tap glasses with everyone within reach.

Mahlzeit (Bon appetite) – You say Mahlzeit right before anyone at your table begins to eat. It means “enjoy your meal.”

South Tyrolean Gastronomy

Schlutzkrapfen (ravioli tirolesi in Italian) – These are similar to Italian ravioli and traditionally filled with curd cheese and spinach. Because we visited during Eierschwammerl (chanterelle mushroom) season, we ate Schlutzkrapfen prepared with delicious mushrooms. 

Knödel (dumplings) – The most common dumplings are made with either Speck (bacon), Käse (cheese) or Spinat (spinach). They are often served in a soup, or as a side dish. You can also order the Knödel-Trilogie, which is one of each, garnished with butter and parmesan.

Südtiroler Speck (smoked ham) –  South Tyrolean ham is often served on an Aufschnittplatte, which is a cold meat and cheese platter. 

South Tyrolean Beverages

White Wine  – South Tyrol is a major wine producer. And, 60% of their total harvest is white wine. They make excellent Gewürztraminer, Weissburgunder, and Chardonnays.  

Schnaps – “Ein Schnapserl in Ehren kann niemand verwehren!”  Translation: “No One can refuse a cherished schnaps.” This toast perfectly suits the culture in South Tyrol. After dinner, many people opt for a fruity Schnaps, as opposed to an espresso, as a digestif.