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The Dolomites, Italy

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Dolomites Travel Guide

The Dolomites are nine mountain groups in northeastern Italy stretching across the regions of Trentino Alto Adige, Veneto, and Friuli Venezia Giulia. In 2009, these mountains were listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site covering a total area of 142,000 hectares. 

The Italian Dolomites are without a question one of the most dramatic alpine destinations in the world. Each mountain group is uniquely shaped. So, when you spend enough time in the region, you know each mountain by its name and appreciate every vantage point, trail, and mountain pass that yields a different view of that mountain.

Beyond the sculpturesque shapes, it’s the unique coloration of the Dolomites that captivate. The light and time of day reveal different shades of crimson, peach, rose, white and violet in the rock. 

Nestled between the cliffs, you’ll find high alpine pastures and meadows dotted with rifugios (mountain huts), cows and horses. During summer high season, rifugios serve food and drink. So, when you’re hiking in the Dolomites, you don’t need to pack a lunch, as there’s usually a delicious meal waiting for you on the mountain.

 

Where to Stay in the Italian Dolomites

The Dolomites stretch across three Italian regions. This is a huge alpine region. When you start to plan your Dolomites trip, it can quickly get overwhelming. After five independent trips to the Dolomites, we’ve narrowed down the best places to stay in summer and early Fall: Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Cortina d’Ampezzo, San Martino di Castrozza, Val di Funes, and Eggental.

Learn More: Best Places to Stay in the Dolomites 

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Dolomites Travel Guide Overview

  • Dolomites Map: Where to Go in the Dolomites
  • Best Time to Visit the Dolomites
  • Languages Spoken in the Dolomites
  • Dolomites Accommodation 
  • How to get to the Dolomites
  • What to Experience in the Dolomites
  • Where to Hike in the Dolomites
  • What to Eat & Drink in the Dolomites
Dolomites Itinerary
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Rifugio Stevia and Col dala Pieres Day Hike, Val Gardena, South Tyrol, Italian Dolomites

Dolomites Map

Where to Go in the Dolomites
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Dolomites Travel Guide - Everything you need to know about visiting the Dolomites, Italy

Best Time to Visit the Dolomites

Best Time for Hiking in the Dolomites

The best time to hike in the Dolomites is from the end of June until the end of September. 

That’s when most trails are free of snow. It’s also when mountain huts (hütte, rifugio) and cableways are open. Many hikes in the Dolomites begin or end with an aerial cableway (chairlift, gondola, etc…). And, if you’re planning on getting around by bus, there are more connections and buses running during high season. 

August in the Dolomites

August is a very busy month in the Dolomites. Italians are on vacation, and there are lots of families on popular trails. Weather is generally excellent with the occasional thunderstorm.

September in the Dolomites

September is a wonderful month to hike in the Dolomites. It’s still busy, but not as packed as August. We spent 3 weeks hiking in September, and the weather was great 90% of the time. That other 10% involved a snow blizzard and some rain. Mountain huts are open, cable cars are running, and busses are frequent.

Learn More: Hiking in the Dolomites in September

October in the Dolomites

October is also a promising month to travel to the Dolomites, especially for fall colors. If you decide to travel to the Dolomites in October, we recommend renting a car. Many mountain huts will already be closed for the season, though not all. And, many chairlifts and gondolas will also be closed (by end of September). So, October promises quiet trails, beautiful colors, but with less convenience.

Learn More: Hiking in the Dolomites in October

Best Time for Skiing in the Dolomites

If your aim is to ski, the season begins in December and ends in April.  In November 2019, the ski slopes already opened up in Alta Badia. However, if you’re planning an international trip, stick to January and February to be safe. 

When You Shouldn’t Travel to the Dolomites

Early Spring. Traveling to the Dolomites in May is hit or miss since the weather is unpredictable. It can still snow, but it’s not “ski season.” Because the region’s many chairlifts aren’t in operation, hiking is limited. Also, many hotels and restaurants are closed, making it difficult to find places to eat. 

 
Dolomites Travel Guide - types of accommodation in the Dolomites / Ciasa Soleil in Alta Badia

What Languages are Spoken in the Dolomites

The Dolomites are located in 5 different provinces (within 3 regions) in Northeastern Italy. One province, South Tyrol (in German: Südtirol; in Italian: Alto Adige), was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire prior to World War I. German continues to be the primary language spoken in this region. When traveling and hiking through South Tyrol, every street, advertisement, natural area, mountain hut, etc… is written in both German and Italian. Throughout this guide, we will use both names to avoid any confusion.

Another language that you may encounter is Ladin, a romance language spoken in the provinces of South Tyrol, Trentino, and Belluno, by the Ladin people. In Alta Badia, you’ll see signage and names (e.g. towns, mountain huts) in three languages: Ladin, German, and Italian. 

Dolomites Travel Guide - Plan your trip to the Dolomites

Dolomites Accommodation

farm stays, hotels, mountain huts

There are many ways to experience the Dolomites. For those that want to experience the culture of the valleys and the towns, we recommend staying in farm stays. For those seeking a luxurious getaway, look no further than the region’s 5-star spa hotels. And for hikers who want to traverse long distances, we recommend sleeping in mountain huts (rifugio, Hütte).

 

Roter Hahn Farm Stays (South Tyrol Only)

Roter Hahn (Red Rooster) is a trademark given to farmhouses in South Tyrol that provide quality holiday accommodations. There are 1,600 Roter Hahn farms in the region. The goal of Roter Hahn is to put people in touch with the rural world of South Tyrol. Another objective is to help farmers establish another occupation and stream of income.

We stayed in three Roter Hahn Farms and had outstanding experiences each time. The hosts were hospitable, the rooms were clean, and overall the prices were cheaper than other accommodation options.

To look for farm stays, use the Roter Hahn website. There’s a form, next to each farmhouse page, that lets you reach out and request a reservation. If the farmhouse has availability for the date(s) given, they’ll reach out to you via email.

 

Wellness Hotels

If farm stays sound too rustic, and you’re in the mood for a real treat, check out some of these superb wellness hotels. Each hotel has an outstanding breakfast buffet and a half-board offering. Based on our personal experience, we can highly recommend:

Dorfhotel Beludei in Santa Cristina, Val Gardena is for the epicureans. The food is simply exquisite here, teetering into the realm of high art. Other highlights include the hotel’s lovely wellness area and bedroom views of Langkofel. Guests of Beludei can join guided hikes for free.

Hotel Col Alto in Corvara, Alta Badia is for the spa lovers. The integrated sauna and wellness area is lavish. Guests are spoiled with five saunas, an indoor swimming pool, a whirlpool, and relaxation rooms with waterbeds and heated lounge chairs. Rooms are divinely comfortable as well.

Hotel Ciasa Soleil in La Villa, Alta Badia is for the sunset enthusiasts. This thoughtfully designed hotel pampers you with spectacular sunsets, which you can enjoy from either the dining room or the outdoor hot tub and terrace. Ciasa Soleil also offers weekly hiking tours, which you can join for free.

Read Next: Best Hotels in the Dolomites

 

Mountain Huts

One of the best things about hiking in the Dolomites is that you can sleep in rifugios (Schutzhaus, Hütte). These mountain huts are located directly on the trails and enable you to stay on the mountain, without having to carry camping gear.

Whether you want to break up a longer trek, or simply wake up in the Dolomites, sleeping in a charming Hütte is a rewarding experience. The Dolomites have a vast network of rifugios, which allows you to hike from one hut to another. It’s important to make reservations in advance. Here are some hut to hut itineraries for inspiration:

 
Hotel Rodella, Selva di Val Gardena, Dolomites in September

How to Get to the Dolomites

Traveling to the Dolomites with a Car

Getting to the Italian Dolomites usually requires a multi-leg journey. International travelers typically fly to the Venice Airport, pick up their rental car, and drive to the Dolomites.

Here are all the closest airports to the Dolomites. Depending on where you land, it can take anywhere from 2:30 to 4 hours to reach the Dolomites.

  • Munich International Airport, Germany to the Dolomites: 3:30 hours
  • Malpensa Airport, Milan, Italy to the Dolomites: 4 hours
  • Marco Polo International Airport, Venice, Italy to the Dolomites: 3 – 4 hours
  • Valerio Catullo Airport, Verona, Italy to the Dolomites: 2:30 hours
  • Innsbruck Airport, Austria, to the Dolomites: 2:30 hours

 

Traveling to the Dolomites without a Car

We’ve traveled to the Dolomites with and without a car. A car affords more flexibility, but you can definitely travel to the Dolomites without renting a car. If you’re flying to the Venice Airport, take the Express Bus from the airport to Cortina D’Ampezzo. From here, you can rely on buses to get to major Dolomites destinations like Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Cinque Torri, Alta Badia, etc…

If you’re traveling to the Dolomites from neighboring countries, you should take a train to Bolzano (Bozen). From Bolzano, it’s really easy to get to Eggental and Val Gardena with public transit. Use these sites to help plan your trip:

  • Dolomiti Bus –  transit schedules for the province of Belluno (Veneto Region)
  • SAD bus site – transit schedules for South Tyrol (Alto Adige)
 
Dolomites Travel Guide - where to stay, accommodation, where to go, what to see

Best Things to Do in the Dolomites

Our favorite experiences

For a complete guide to what to do in the Dolomites, read Unforgettable Things to Do in the Dolomites.

Overnighting in a Rifugio - Dolomites Travel Guide
Rifugio Auronzo

Stay in a Rifugio

One of the best things about hiking in the Dolomites is that you can sleep in a mountain refuge (hütte, rifugio). Sleeping in a mountain hut, surrounded by breathtaking scenery, is a wonderful experience in and of itself. However, it’s also very practical, if you want to break up a longer trek like this 3 Day Rosengarten Trek.

We love the atmosphere of rifugios in the Dolomites. People play cards, read books, examine trail maps, and drink Schnaps. And because you’re seated with other hikers at dinner, you get to connect with new people and share your experiences.

Another benefit of staying in a hut is seeing how the colors of the mountains change with the time of day. When we arrived at the mountain hut Tierser Alpl (Rifugio Alpe di Tires) in the late afternoon, the mountains looked purple. In the morning, they looked yellow.

Read Next: Hiking to Tierser Alpl Schutzhaus from Seiser Alm

 
Hiking the Loop Trail around Tre Cime di Lavaredo - Dolomites Travel Guide

Hike the Loop Trail around Tre Cime di Lavaredo

This hike upstages all others. The views are mind-blowing. You might even think that you don’t deserve them, after barely breaking a sweat on the trail. Well, you deserve them. And, we hope you go.

In a nutshell, the hike circumnavigates the iconic Three Peaks (Drei Zinnen in German, Tre Cime di Lavaredo in Italian). It takes about 4 hours to do the whole loop, which is 9.4 km in length. The most impressive view of the peaks is from Dreizinnenhütte, which is a mountain hut facing the north side of Tre Cime di Lavaredo. It’s also a great place to have lunch. 

Where to start. If you’re coming to Naturpark Drei Zinnen (Tre Cime Natural Park) for the day, then drive to Rifugio Auronzo. There is a 30 EUR toll to drive up to the hut. Alternatively, if you’re staying in a mountain hut, you can start the hike at Fischleintal in Sexten, where there’s a parking lot. It will take 3.5 hours to reach Dreizinnenhütte from Fischleintal. Read our Tre Cime di Lavaredo 3 Day Trek for inspiration.

Read Next: Tre Cime di Lavaredo Day Hike

 
Hotel Ciasa Soleil, Alta Badia Hotel in La Villa, Italy
Hotel Ciasa Soleil

Discover the Meaning of Wellness in Alta Badia

Nestled between the Puez Mountains, Fanes Group, Sella Group, Mount Sassongher, and the Cir peaks, Alta Badia is one of the best destinations in the Dolomites. This charming region in South Tyrol delights with its idyllic scenery, numerous hiking trails, and stellar hotels.

When it comes to wellness and spa hotels, Alta Badia is the reigning queen of the Dolomites. These hotels pamper guests with their extensive wellness and sauna facilities, gourmet half-board menus, alpine-chic design, and scenic locations.

  1. Hotel Cristallo in La Villa, Alta Badia
  2. Hotel Kolfuschgerhof in Colfosco, Alta Badia
  3. Hotel Fanes in San Cassiano, Alta Badia
  4. Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa in San Cassiano, Alta Badia
  5. Hotel Col Alto in Corvara, Alta Badia
  6. Hotel Ciasa Soleil in La Villa, Alta Badia

Learn More: Alta Badia Summer Guide

 
Val Gardena Day Hike - Rifugio Stevia to Col dala Pieres Circuit
Geisler Peaks

Marvel at the Seceda Ridgeline and Hike around Val Gardena

Val Gardena (Grödnertal) is a valley in South Tyrol that encompasses the towns St. Ulrich (Ortisei), St. Christina (Santa Cristina) and Wolkenstein (Selva Gardena). From these towns, you can hop on an aerial cableway to various plateaus and summits in the Val Gardena Dolomites.

We spent a day hiking in Val Gardena from the mountain station Seceda to Regensburger Hütte. This breathtaking hike starts with views of the Geisler (Odle) peaks which look like an open swiss-army knife. The trail then descends and winds through the farm Pieralongia. This magical spot looks like a sacred pagan place of worship and sacrifice. It’s UNREAL. You have to see it!!  Next, the trail cuts across Cisles Alm (Alpe di Cisles), a meadow with stunning views of the Geisler (Odle) Group and uncountable peaks.

Another fantastic (and not as well know) approach to Seceda is from Resciesa. Read about the superb Resciesa to Seceda day hike here. 

Learn More: Best Hiking Trails in Val Gardena

 
Lago di Braies, Dolomites Travel Guide
Lago di Braies

Visit the Dolomite’s most Photogenic Lake: Lago di Braies

Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee in German) is called the Pearl of the Dolomites. There are a few ways to enjoy this beautiful lake: (1) hiking around the lake (takes one hour), (2) renting a rowboat, and (3) having lunch at the lakeside hotel, Hotel Lago di Braies.

What time to visit. This lake isn’t a secret. We arrived at 9:00 a.m., which we thought was early enough to beat the crowds. It wasn’t. We recommend coming as early as 7 a.m. to enjoy the serenity of the lake without the heavy foot traffic.

 
Adolf Munkel Trail, Dolomites, Italy Travel Guide
Geisleralm

Hike at the foot of the Geisler Peaks

The Adolf Munkel Trail in Val di Funes (Vilnöss Valley) is an easy 9.2 km hike that takes you to the foot of the Geisler Peaks. As you ascend along a small stream to the peaks, you’ll quickly understand why the Dolomites are called the Pale Mountains.

After hiking beneath these impressive Dolomite pinnacles, the trail leads you to a high alpine pasture. Cows, donkeys, and horses might greet you as you hike to the mountain hut Gschnagenhardt Alm (Malga Casnago), elevation 2,006 meters. You can relax outside, order lunch, drink a beer, and interact with the animals.

Learn More: Hiking the Adolf Munkel Trail 

 
Dolomites Travel Guide - Top Experiences

Discover World War I Trails and Tunnels

During World War I, the front between Austria-Hungary and Italy ran through the Dolomites. A bitter mountain war was waged between the opposing sides from 1915 to 1917. Both armies built tunnels, trails, and trenches to secure the border and protect themselves. The reason why there is such a great network of trails today is due to the efforts of these WWI soldiers.

During the course of the war, the greatest threat to both armies was the extreme weather. In December 1916, avalanches buried 10,000 Italian and Austrian troops in just two days.

Though it’s impossible to imagine how a war could be fought in such unforgiving terrain, there is plenty of evidence pointing to this region’s inglorious past.

To see trenches, tunnels and trails from the war, visit the open-air museum at Cinque Torri, Lagazuoi Tunnels, and Monte Piano.

 
Lago di Sorapiss, Dolomites Travel, Italy
Lago di Sorapiss

Fall in Love with Lago di Sorapiss

Lago di Sorapiss is a glacial lake within the region Veneto. The lake takes its name from the mountain Sorapiss. Framed by trees, Lago di Sorapiss is one of the most stunning places you’ll see in the Dolomites. Apart from the mountain backdrop, the most spectacular feature of the lake is its unique turquoise color. The water also has a milky quality due to suspended powdered rock. You might think you’re looking at an enchantress’ pool filled with a magic potion.

To get to the lake, start at Passo Tre Croci. The hike takes 1.5 – 2 hours, one-way. You’ll take Trail no. 215 towards Rifugio Vandelli, which is a mountain hut near the lake. The first half of the trail is flat, but the second-half is steep. The ascent is aided with ropes and stairs.

Read Next: Best Day Hikes in the Dolomites

 
Dolomites Travel Guide and Travel Tips

What to Eat & Drink in the Dolomites

Italian Custom: Coperto

Coperto means cover charge. It’s the fee you pay to sit at a table in a restaurant. Generally, the fee is somewhere between 1 EUR and 5 EUR. This may, or may not be advertised on the menu. You generally won’t pay a coperto in this region of Italy. During our trip, the only place a coperto was added to the bill was in the city of Bolzano.

 

South Tyrolean Gastronomy

Schlutzkrapfen (ravioli tirolesi in Italian) – These are similar to Italian ravioli and traditionally filled with curd cheese and spinach. Because we visited during Eierschwammerl (chanterelle mushroom) season, we ate Schlutzkrapfen prepared with delicious mushrooms. 

 

Knödel (dumplings) – The most common dumplings are made with either Speck (bacon), Käse (cheese), or Spinat (spinach). They are often served in a soup, or as a side dish. You can also order the Knödel-Trilogie, which is one of each, garnished with butter and parmesan.

 

Südtiroler Speck (smoked ham) –  South Tyrolean ham is often served on an Aufschnittplatte, which is a cold meat and cheese platter. 

 

South Tyrolean Beverages

White Wine  – South Tyrol is a major wine producer. And, 60% of their total harvest is white wine. They make excellent Gewürztraminer, Weissburgunder, and Chardonnays.  

 

Schnaps – “Ein Schnapserl in Ehren kann niemand verwehren!”  Translation: “No One can refuse a cherished schnaps.” This toast perfectly captures the culture of South Tyrol. After dinner, many people opt for a Schnapps, as opposed to espresso, as a digestif. 

 
Tre Cime Natural Park, Drei Zinnen, Dolomites Travel Guide, Italy

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  • Happy New Year! Like most of you, we won’t be traveling or going anywhere too exciting for the next few months. In the meantime, we thought we’d share some of our favorite Tenerife photos from last January. Tenerife was never on our radar. But, we saw a petsit opportunity pop up and Kati applied immediately. It was one of the best travel decisions we’ve ever made. We’re crossing our fingers that we can return to the Canaries at the end of this year. Where do you hope to hike in 2021?? #tenerife #canaryislands
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  • Path of the Larches is a short scenic trail between the Rü and Rudiferia farmsteads above San Cassiano in Alta Badia. You can hike this short trail anytime of year.
  • Monte Pic summit views, Val Gardena, South Tyrol.