Italy Travel Guide

Hiking in the Dolomites

It’s hard not to gush when describing the uniquely sculpted peaks and pale coloration of the Dolomites, a mountain range in northeastern Italy. When you hike in the Dolomites, you feel like you’re at the meeting place between heaven and earth.

Beyond the scenery, one of the best reasons to hike here is for the comfort, or as the Austrians would say, “Gemütlichkeit.” Much of the Dolomites lies within a province that was formerly part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The Austrian love of coziness still permeates the regional culture of northeastern Italy today. And luckily for visitors, that means cozy mountainside huts to sleep and eat in.

There’s a large network of rifugios (mountain huts) across the Dolomites that makes hiking here more accessible. One of our most memorable experiences in Italy was hiking the Alta Via 1.

Dolomites Travel Guides:

• Dolomites Travel Guide
• Best Hotels in the Dolomites
• Where to Stay in the Dolomites in Summer
• 7 Day Dolomites Road Trip
• Places to Visit in the Dolomites
• Things to Do in the Dolomites
• How to Get to the Dolomites
• When to Visit the Dolomites

Dolomites Hiking Guides:

• Best Day Hikes in the Dolomites
• Hut to Hut Hiking in the Dolomites
• Best Hikes in Cortina d’Ampezzo
• Best Hikes in Val Gardena
• Best Hikes in Alta Badia 

The Cave City of Matera

Matera is an ancient city in Southern Italy famed for its cave dwellings that are carved into the mountain, known as the Sassi. In 1993, the Sassi districts were awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. Though it’s a tourist destination today, it was actually a very poor region in the 1950s. The people of Matera were evacuated by the government because the living conditions were so bad.

The Sassi are so unique to Italy. As you explore the caves, you might even think you’re in the Middle East. For that reason, Matera is a favorite destination for filmmakers, especially those filming Biblical tales. Some of the films shot in Matera are The Passion of the Christ (2004), The Nativity Story (2006), King David (1985), The Young Messiah (2006). When we visited in 2016, we nonchalantly walked onto the set of Wonder Woman (2017) and saw drop-dead-gorgeous actors clad in market and warrior costumes.

When you visit, you’ll want at least three days here (at least). We highly recommend sleeping in a cave (maybe one with a cave pool) and walking down the deep ravine (Gravina of Matera) to see ancient dwellings and a great vantage point of the Sassi. There are excellent food options throughout the city. Here are two spots we can wholeheartedly recommend.

• Ristorante Francesca (Vico Bruno Buozzi, 9, 75100 Matera) – This cave restaurant is a dream. The cuisine was quite literally out of this world. We will never forget the epic cheese plate we ate here. 
• Panecotto (Vico B. Buozzi, 10 Matera) – This casual restaurant specializes in bruschetta and soups. The atmosphere is lovely and the food is simple, but delicious.

Driving the Adriatic Coast

The Adriatic coastline is one of our favorite destinations in Italy. This region doesn’t perform a caricature of itself like other popular Italian destinations. It’s more subdued in its charm. More authentic. Puglia’s coastal villages are disarmingly good-looking. Town streets are narrow and rimmed with cactus plants. The whitewashed buildings contrast ever so gracefully against the turquoise sea waters. And, blue fishing boats line the shores and fisherman sell their daily catch.

We recommend visiting the following towns (North to South):

• Bari (Coast)
• Polignano a Mare (Coast)
• Monopoli (Coast)
• Alberobello (Inland)
• Martina Franca (Inland)
• Ostuni (Inland)
• Otranto (Coast)

Dining in a Trullo in Alberobello

Alberobello is a small town in Puglia in southern Italy. The most striking feature of the town is the dense collection of trulli houses. A trullo is a dry stone hut with a conical roof. There are lots of theories regarding the origin of the trulli. One theory is tax evasion. In the 17th century, nobles could impose heavy taxes on permanent structures. Peasant families, who were unable to pay the tax, built their dwellings in such a way (without any mortar or cement) so that they could demolish the hut easily. The conical roof needs the topmost stone to prevent the roof from collapsing. So, someone could pull the stone out, collapse the hut and avoid paying the tax, at any given moment. 

In Alberobello, trulli are actively being restored and used. Most of the huts are habitable and function as stores, restaurants, and hotels.

Now that you’re mildly intrigued, let’s talk about the swoon-worthy and tear-worthy food of Alberobello. Actually, let’s just talk about a place called Trattoria Terra Madre. Located in a trullo, this gift-to-humanity restaurant serves beautifully prepared vegetables, pasta, and meats. Terra Madre sources its ingredients locally and from its organic garden. If a meal can shape destinies, then this meal may have done that. We didn’t become chefs the next day. But, we decided to ditch our respectable lives in our respective cities (Vienna and San Francisco) for something more exciting (living together in one city. Hint: Alaaf!).

Capri

Capri is an island in the Bay of Naples in Southern Italy. Given its easy proximity to Sorrento and Naples, Capri is a popular day-trip. However, if you stay the night, you’ll discover the unspoiled charm of the island.

We visited Capri in early Spring. For anyone thinking it’s too touristy, you’re right. But, if you venture beyond Capri Town and Anacapri, you’ll be rewarded with untraversed footpaths and remote coastal access.

For a non-ostentatious, yet delicious fish dinner, we recommend Ristorante Buca Di Bacco (Via Longano, 35, Capri) in Capri Town.

Eating Pizza in Naples

Naples is the capital city of the region Campani in Southern Italy. This lively city animated with swift motorbikes is the birthplace of pizza as we know it. Making a pilgrimage to Naples to taste Neapolitan pizza is something every food lover must do. We recommend eating at Antonio e Gigi Sorbillo (Via dei Tribunali, 38).

There’s so much to experience in this dynamic Southern Italian city beyond its pizza. Here are some ideas for unraveling Naples’ layered history and culture:

• Tour the Opera House, Teatro di San Carlo
• Walk the Spaccanapoli in the centro storico
• Check out the extravagant handmade puppets (Pulcinella) and Crèche work of Naples craftsman along Via San Gregorio Armeno 
• Eat gelato at Gay-Odin 
• Have a glass (or bottle) of wine in Piazza Bellini, a lively gathering spot that feels like the heartbeat of the Napoli youth culture.
• Tour Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo, built in 1470. Don’t miss the 17th-century reliquary busts of 70 martyred saints.

We recommend spending at least 2 full days in Naples. Read this helpful guide on where to stay in Naples to find the perfect accommodation for you.

Discover Aosta Valley, the land of Fontina Cheese, Roaming Ibex, and Medieval Castles

Aosta Valley (Valle d’Aosta) is Italy’s smallest region. Surrounded by Europe’s highest peaks and snuggled between France, Switzerland, and Piedmont (Italy), Valle d’Aosta is the ultimate destination for mountain lovers.

If you want to experience the beauty of Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco), Europe’s highest mountain, or Gran Paradiso National Park, Valle d’Aosta is the place to go. 

You can also experience the highlights of Aosta Valley along the famous Tour du Mont Blanc trail.

Learn More: Aosta Valley Travel Guide

Tramin and the South Tyrolean Wine Road (Alto Adige)

Tramin is a wine village, situated on the South Tyrolean Wine Road (aka Alto Adige Wine Road) in Northern Italy. It’s also the alleged birthplace of Gewürztraminer wine. On our way to Aosta Valley, we detoured to Tramin for the sole intention of drinking Gewürztraminer. “Gewürz” means spicy in German, and you can really taste the spice in these Tramin wines.

Elena Walch makes sophisticated and elegant world-class wines. We left with bottles of Gewürztraminer Concerto Grosso (2017), Chardonnay Cardellino (2017) and EWA cuvée (2017). There are several ways to visit the winery. If you plan on buying wine, you can head directly to their tasting room. If you want to enjoy a glass (or bottle) of Alto Adige wine with some food, go to their Garden Bistrot Kastelaz “Le verre capricieux”. They also offer winery tours (May – October). If you’re interested in a tour, we recommend making a reservation in advance.

Also, check out the gorgeous tasting room of Cantina Tramin. Here, you can try a huge selection of whites and reds in a modern tasting room that overlooks the wide valley of the Adige River. We loved their Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer and Unterebner Pinot Grigio (2017).

Trek around Mount Ortler in Val Venosta

Mount Ortler, or fondly called King Ortles (3,905 m, 12,812 ft), is the highest mountain in the Ortler Alps and the entire Eastern Alps. This prominent mountain is situated in the Vinschgau (Val Venosta) region of South Tyrol. 

We came here to hike part of the Ortler High Mountain Trail, a multi-day trek that circumnavigates the Ortler Group. We loved our experience because of the glacier views, the solitude, and the South Tyrolean hospitality and food. 

Things to Do in the Ortler Alps

• Hike part of the Ortler High Mountain Trail 
• Eat Lunch with a view of Mount Ortler at Furkelhütte (Rifugio Forcola). You can hike to the hut from Stelvio Pass (highly recommended) in 3 hours, or ascend here by chairlift from Trafoi village. 
• Stay in Hotel Bella Vista in Trafoi village, when you want great food, wine, hosts, and views. 
• Wine, dine, and luxuriate in Hotel Burgaunerhof’s panoramic wellness area in Martell Valley.