Nestled in the heart of the Upper Puster Valley, where the road leads into the Sexten Valley, San Candido (Innichen in German) is a charming alpine town perfectly placed for adventures in the Sesto-Sexten Dolomites, the Carnic Alps, and the nearby Braies-Prags Dolomites.
San Candido is remarkably easy to reach by train or bus, making it one of the most transit-friendly destinations in the Dolomites. Exploring the region without a car is easy, especially with the free Südtirol Mobile Guest Card for overnight visitors, which grants unlimited access to public transport throughout South Tyrol.
With the Dolomites’ growing popularity, especially around well-known spots like Lake Braies and Tre Cime di Lavaredo, local authorities have introduced increasing traffic restrictions to protect the area. You can avoid many of these limitations by visiting in autumn. If you’re visiting in summer, however, it pays to be strategic about where you go. In this guide, I hope to steer you in the right direction.
Read our companion guide, Where to Stay in San Candido, for an overview of the best accommodation options based on your travel style and the season.
- Top Places to Visit around San Candido: Val Fiscalina, Prato Piazza Plateau, and Lago di Braies
- Rainy Day Ideas: Book a day spa at Caravan Park Sexten, or visit Bruneck
- San Candido Self-Catering Accommodations: Wachtler Dolomite Apartments, Residence Kugler, Residence Silvia, ATTO Suites, and Apartments Hermann’s (car needed)
- San Candido Hotels: Hotel Orso Grigio, or Post Hotel, Naturhotel Leitlhof, and Hotel Schopfenhof (car needed)
- Dolomites Road Trips: 5-Day Dolomites Road Trip, 7-Day Dolomites Road Trip, or 10-14 Day Dolomites Road Trip
- Car-Free Travel: How to Visit the Dolomites Without a Car
Explore San Candido’s Town Center
The heart of San Candido is compact and wonderfully walkable, with a charming pedestrian zone stretching along Via Peter Paul Rainer, lined with shops, cafés, restaurants, and hotels.
The most impressive structure in the village is undoubtedly the Romaneseque Collegiate Church of San Candido, or Stiftskirche Innichen. In the vestibule, mounted above the door, you’ll see a curious bone. According to local legends, it’s the rib of Haunold the Giant.
When the townspeople built the Collegiate Church of San Candido, Haunold helped carry massive stones in exchange for daily feasts of veal, beans, and wine. Once the church was finished, however, his endless demands led the townsfolk to trap and kill him. To honor his contribution, the locals displayed one of his ribs in the church. Though the rib in fact belongs to a prehistoric animal, the legend lives on.
My favorite shops are Wachtler Specialitá for coffee and cake, Flora Gourmet for pasta, Tito Speck – Il Maso dello Speck for cheese and wine, and Doham der Stauder for home décor.
If you’re visiting during the shoulder season, when the mountain huts are closed, and need to pack a lunch for your hike, you can pick up freshly made sandwiches at the Eurospar bakery in the town center, located on the ground floor of Kaufhaus Schäfer (Google Maps).
The jagged mountain that dominates the skyline of San Candido is Haunold (Rocca dei Baranci), named after the legendary town giant. In summer, families with kids ascend the Haunold chairlift in order to ride the Funbob. The 1.7 km long summer toboggan run curves down to the valley station at an average gradient of 18.5%. In winter, Haunold is a small family-friendly ski area.
If you want to stay in the heart of the action, consider these self-catering accommodations: Wachtler Dolomite Apartments, ATTO Suites, Residence Kugler, Residence Silvia. For a hotel experience with on-site dining and spa facilities, we recommend Hotel Orso Grigio (4-star hotel with parking), and Post Hotel (4-star adults-only hotel with offside paid parking).
Where to Eat around San Candido
At lunchtime, consider Wachtler Botanic Bistro for their daily menu, or Restaurant Wiesthaler, which boasts a sunny terrace as well as cozy interiors.
The restaurant at ATTO Suites, a sister property of Naturhotel Leitlhof, serves refined Alpine-Mediterranean cuisine made with ingredients from their own farms and local producers.
In Sexten, we love dining at Luis Alm for an upscale yet still affordable date night, or Kinigerhof for hearty South Tyrolean fare. Kinigerhof sources its meat directly from their own farm, making it the perfect place to enjoy Tagliata. Reservations are necessary for both establishments.
Those seeking a more casual experience should stop by the bistro at the 3 Zinnen Dairy in Dobbiaco (Toblach), a local favorite and a wonderful insider tip from Wachtler Apartments.
If you’re like us and enjoy the convenience of having dinner right at your hotel, we recommend booking half board at Naturhotel Leitlhof and Hotel Schopfenhof.
Top Winter Activities in San Candido
Christmas Market
From the end of November until early January, the town center of San Candido hosts an annual Christmas Market. See exact opening dates.
Timber huts sell local foods like Gerstensuppe (Barley Soup), Rindsgulasch (Beef Goulash), Würstel mit Brot (Sausage with Bread), and Pressknödel mit Kraut (Pressed Dumplings with Sauerkraut), Strauben mit Preiselbeermarmelade (Tyrolean Funnel Cake with Jam, and Apfelküchlein (Apple Fritters).
We timed our December visit to San Candido with the Krampus Run in Toblach. There’s also an annual Krampuslauf in nearby Sexten and Gsiesertal.
Learn More: Dolomites in December
3 Zinnen Ski Resort
San Candido is located in the 3 Zinnen Dolomites Ski Resort, one of the Dolomiti Superski ski areas. From the town center, it’s just a short walk or bus ride to the Haunold (Baranci) ski area, ideal for families and beginners, with gentle slopes and night skiing.
Intermediate and advanced skiers can easily access the wider 3 Zinnen ski region, which connects Monte Elmo (Helm), Croda Rossa (Rotwand), and Stiergarten by lift and slope, offering 115 kilometers of perfectly groomed slopes framed by breathtaking Dolomite peaks.
If your primary goal is skiing, I recommend staying in Vierschach, a hamlet in the San Candido municipality at the base of the Vierschach-Helm ski lift. The best ski-to-door accommodations are Hotel Andermax (4-star hotel), JOAS natur.hotel.b&b (bed & breakfast), and Post Alpina: Family Mountain Chalets (4-star family-friendly hotel).
Alternatively, stay in Sexten, which boasts arguably the best location for skiing in the 3 Zinnen Dolomites Ski Resort. Consider Alpenwellness Hotel St. Veit (4-star hotel), Berghotel Sexten (4-star hotel), Hotel Alpenblick (4-star hotel), and Hotel Royal (3-star hotel).
If you want to experience another ski resort in the Dolomites, you can ride the Ski Pustertal Express train from Vierschach or San Candido to the Kronplatz (Plan de Corones) Ski Area.
Learn more: Skiing in the Dolomites
6 Best Hikes around San Candido
San Candido makes an excellent base for hiking in the Sesto-Sexten Dolomites, Braies-Prags Dolomites, and Carnic Alps. Below are our favorite hikes around San Candido. Consult our trail guides for detailed descriptions and key route information.
1. Vallon Popera – Rifugio Berti Hike
Nestled in the Comelico sub-group of the Eastern Sexten Dolomites, Vallon Popera is a spectacular basin ringed by jagged, chiseled peaks.
The hike begins at Kreuzbergpass, steadily ascending through forested slopes to Forcella Pian della Biscia. From there, a thrilling balcony trail traverses the southeastern flank of Arzalpenkopf (Croda Sora i Colesei). A challenging, partially secured climb up a gully leads to the ruins of Rifugio Sala, followed by a short ascent to the panoramic Belvedere Creston Popera.
The trail then loops around the basin to the photo-worthy Laghetto Popera, before gently descending to Rifugio Berti. From Rifugio Berti, the path drops down in serpentines to Rifugio Lunelli in Val Grande. The return to Kreuzbergpass is mostly through forest, providing a peaceful conclusion to this spectacular route.
Learn More: Vallon Popera Hike
2. Torre dei Scarperi Hike – Tre Cime di Lavaredo Route
Hiking to Tre Cime di Lavaredo, the Three Peaks of the Sexten Dolomites, is a top priority for most first-time visitors to the Dolomites. The vast of majority of those visitors will drive the Auronzo toll road up to Rifugio Auronzo, where they begin the roughly 4-hour Tre Cime circuit trail, often followed by a quick detour to the Cadini di Misurina Viewpoint. The toll road now requires pre-booking in advance for the entire season, typically from June through October.
For travelers based in San Candido, however, I strongly recommend skipping the Auronzo toll road. Instead, opt for the more scenic and rewarding northern ascent routes via Val Fiscalina or Val Campo di Dentro, which offer a far more enjoyable and peaceful mountain experience.
The Torre dei Scarperi circuit trail is a thrilling route in the Northern Sexten Dolomites, which leads through Val Campo di Dentro (Innerfeldtal), a side valley of Sexten, all the way up to the Three Peaks.
The hike begins at the Antoniusstein car park (Google Maps) near Rifugio Tre Scarperi (Drei Schuster Hütte), accessible by car early in the morning or by shuttle bus from the Val Campo di Dentro valley entrance car park (Google Maps).
From Rifugio Tre Scarperi (Drei Schuster Hütte), the trail traces the valley and then climbs around the western slopes of Monte Mattina (Morgenkopf) and Torre dei Scarperi (Schwabenalpenkopf) to reach the Schwaben Alm. Sections of secured scrambling add a touch of adventure to the ascent.
After circling Torre dei Scarperi, a short detour leads to Rifugio Locatelli (Dreizinnenhütte), the famous hut overlooking the Three Peak. Up until this point, this path traces the start of the Alta Via 4 long distance trail.
The descent along Monte Mattina’s eastern flank back to Val Campo di Dentro is spectacular but lengthy.
Learn More: Torre dei Scarperi Hike
3. Val Fiscalina Hike
The dazzling Val Fiscalina-Fischleintal branches off the Sesto – Sexten Valley at Moso – Moos and stretches to the base of Cima Una – Einserkofel.
Val Fiscalina is an ideal destination for all visitors. Families can enjoy an easy hike along the valley floor to Rifugio Fondovalle – Talschlusshütte, starting from Sexten, Moso, or the Parkplatz Fischleinbodenhütte (accessible by bus in peak season).
Beyond Rifugio Fondovalle, the valley divides: the western branch leads into Val Sasso Vecchio (Altensteintal), while the eastern branch continues into Val Fiscalina Alta (Bacherntal).
On our first visit, we hiked the beginner-friendly 3-Day Sexten Dolomites Hut-to-Hut Route. The trail climbs up Val Sasso Vecchio to Rifugio Locatelli (Dreizinnenhütte), circles Tre Cime di Lavaredo, and then ascends to the highest refuge in the Sexten Dolomites, Rifugio Pian di Cengia (Büllelejochhütte, 2528 m), before descending Val Fiscalina Alta back into the valley.
Ambitious hikers can tackle the Val Fiscalina – Rifugio Locatelli – Rifugio Pian di Cengia route in a single day, leaving out the circuit around the Three Peaks.
Read our full Val Fiscalina Guide to plan your visit.
4. Prati di Croda Rossa
The Prati di Croda Rossa (Rotwandwiesen) meadows lie at the foot of Croda Rossa di Sesto (Sextener Rotwand) in the Sexten Dolomites.
This scenic, family-friendly destination is easily reached by cableway from Moos, next to the Bad Moos Dolomites Spa Resort. Alternatively, you can skip the lift and begin the hike higher up the Val Fiscalina valley near Hotel Dolomitenhof.
From the Croda Rossa – Rotwand meadows, I recommend hiking along the base of the Sexten mountains to Passo Monte Croce – Kreuzbergpass. This rewarding point-to-point route offers remarkable variety and dramatic vistas as it winds through forests, meadows, and rocky alpine slopes in a relatively short distance.
Feel free to reverse the route, starting with a bus ride to Passo Monte Croce (Kreuzbergpass) and ending with the gondola descent. This direction has a distinct advantage: you’ll end your hike in comfort, savoring a well-deserved meal at Rifugio Rudi.
I’ve hiked this trail twice–once in mid-June and again in late October–and both times were poorly timed. Because the route runs entirely along north-facing slopes, snow tends to linger here. In early summer, sections of the trail may still be snow-covered, while in autumn it can be frosty and icy due to the lack of direct sunlight. Take my advice and plan this hike between July and September for the best conditions.
Insider Tip | If you’re visiting San Candido in winter, the Rotwandwiesen Chalets are a dreamy place to stay, ski-in, ski-out convenience right in the heart of the 3 Zinnen Ski Resort. The chalets are also open in summer, but they’re a bit too tucked away to be a practical base for exploring the wider Alta Pusteria region.
5. Hochalpenkopf Peak Hike
Given the crowds, I can’t wholeheartedly recommend Lago di Braies. One exception, however, is the Hochalpenkopf circuit trail. It’s a long and demanding hike, requiring stamina, but it’s well worth the effort. Not only do you get to experience the lake, but you also uncover a hidden world within the Fanes-Sennes-Prags Nature Park.
Private vehicle traffic to Lago di Braies is restricted during peak season. Visit prags.bz for up-to-date information.
Learn more: How to Hike Hochalpenkopf
6. Gaisl High Trail
At 2,000 meters, the high plateau of Prato Piazza (Plätzwiese) is a popular starting point for many hikes in the Braies-Prags Dolomites. One of my favorite routes is the Gaisl High Trail, which skirts the northern foot of the Croda Rossa (Hohe Gaisl) massif, running from Malga Stolla to Malga Rossalm in the Upper Kaserbachtal valley.
To begin this point-to-point hike, take the bus from Ponticello to Prato Piazza. For current information on seasonal access and restrictions, visit prags.bz/en/plaetzwiese.
For a shorter adventure, consider the Strudelkopf summit hike.
Learn More: Gaisl High Trail
Find the Perfect Place to Stay
If you’re traveling without a car, the most convenient option is to stay in San Candido’s town center, within walking distance of the train station.
For self-catering accommodations, consider: Wachtler Dolomite Apartments (3-star apartments, read our Wachtler Dolomite Apartments Review), Residence Kugler (3-star apartments), and Residence Silvia (3-star apartments). For a hotel experience with on-site dining and spa facilities, we recommend Hotel Orso Grigio (4-star hotel) and Post Hotel (4-star adults-only hotel).
If you’re traveling with a car, you might also look to the hillsides north of Val Pusteria. These accommodations offer sweeping views of the Sexten Dolomites, though some require comfortable driving on mountain roads.
The 4-star Hotel Schopfenhof and its sister property, Apartments Hermann’s, are beautifully situated above San Candido. They share wellness amenities such as a panoramic spa and infinity pool, linked internally by an underground gallery. Apartment guests can request to dine at the hotel restaurant. Also take a look at Bio- Ranerhof (1-2 bedroom apartments), and Glinzhof (4-star hotel).
For the ultimate spa hotel experience with a bountiful half board offering, stay in Naturhotel Leitlhof (eco-friendly wellness hotel), located just above the village. Read our Naturhotel Leitlhof Review.
More Dolomites Travel Guides
Travel Guides:
- Dolomites Travel Guide
- Places to Visit in the Dolomites
- Things to Do in the Dolomites
- How to Get to the Dolomites
- Best Time to Visit the Dolomites
- Day Hikes in the Dolomites
Where to Stay in the Dolomites:
- Where to Stay in the Dolomites in Summer
- Where to Stay in Cortina d’Ampezzo
- Val Gardena Hotels
- Alta Badia Hotels
- Best Hotels in the Dolomites
Winter Travel:
Pin this Image for Future Trip Planning!
Stay Connected:
Connect with us on Pinterest.
Follow us on Instagram.
Like us on Facebook.
Support Us:
If you love reading my content, you can send me a direct donation.
