Appenzell, Switzerland

Appenzell, Switzerland Travel Guide

Appenzell (aka Appenzellerland) is a region in northeastern Switzerland that is divided into two sub-cantons: Appenzell Ausserrhoden and Appenzell Innerrhoden.

This beautiful corner of Switzerland embodies pastoral romanticism. Farms are situated on hilly green pastures framed by pockets of forest. As you take in the idyllic landscape dotted with grazing horned Braunvieh cattle, you might think that you’ve landed in the happiest place on earth.

The Alpstein mountain range forms the backdrop of the Appenzell region. Hiking in the Alpstein is magnificent and surprisingly very accessible. Many day hikes begin, or end with cable cars.

As you’re hiking, you’ll be accompanied by the cheerful bell ensemble of the alpine cows and goats. Perhaps the most satisfying aspect of hiking here is that you can purchase Appenzeller cheese directly from farmers. So, in our book, Appenzell is one of the best places in the world to hike.

Getting Around

If you’re driving in Switzerland and intend on taking the highways (Autobahnen), make sure to buy a “Swiss motorway sticker” or “vignette” for 40 CHF (approx. 41 USD). It is valid for the whole year. Unlike Austria, there are no 10 day or shorter period options. In Switzerland, the “vignette” can be purchased in petrol stations, post offices, garages, TCS outlets, as well as from the road traffic authorities.

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Appenzell Travel Guide Overview

Appenzell Map
Where to Stay in Appenzell
When to Visit Appenzell
Best Things to Do in Appenzell
What to Eat & Drink in Appenzell

Appenzell Travel and Hiking Guides

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Berggasthaus Aescher Wildkirchli, Alpstein

Appenzell Map

Click the dots to explore specific destinations.

Appenzell Destinations

Schäfler Ridge
Aescher Mountain Inn
Seealpsee - Aescher Trail
Seealpsee Circuit Trail
Marwees Ridge Trail
Hoher Kasten - Saxer Lücke Trail
Lisengrat Ridge Trail
Appenzell Village
Alpstein 3-Day Trek

Where to Stay in Appenzell

Appenzell Village

The lovely town of Appenzell is the capital of the Swiss Canton of Appenzell Innerhhoden. Surrounded by beautiful countryside, Appenzell is a picturesque town with colorful gabled buildings that house delicious bakeries, restaurants, hotels, apartments, and museums.

Accommodations are always clean and comfortable, but modest. There are no 5-star hotels in this area of Switzerland.

Appenzell is also a great base for those traveling without a car. With train connections to Wasserauen and Weissbad (bus transfer to Brüllisau), it’s effortless to get around to various trailheads.

Budget | Alte Metzg – Hostel offers 3 spotless rooms with communal bathrooms and kitchen facilities. This intimate hostel is walking distance to the Appenzell village center and train station. On-site parking is available, but must be reserved in advance (fees apply). They also run the neighboring midrange Alte Metzg Boutique Pension with private single, double, and family rooms.

Midrange | Blattenheimat – im traditionellen Appenzeller Haus (2 nights minimum stay) is a traditional, gabled house with 2-3 bedroom apartments and free private parking, very close to the Hauptgasse (pedestrain main street of Appenzell). Guests have access to a washing machine and dryer in the basement.

Midrange | Located very close to the Appenzell train station, Hotel B&B Stossplatz is a darling bed and breakfast with free private parking, free bikes, and a shared lounge. Rooms either have shared, or private bathrooms.

Luxury | Hotel Appenzell is located on the historic Landgemeinde Square in the center of Appenzell village. Boasting an excellent restaurant with an outdoor terrace as well as a confiserie (patisserie), this traditional Appenzell hotel is a great option for your stay. Breakfast and parking are included in the rate.

Luxury | Adler Hotel is centrally located at the start of the pedestrian Hauptgasse (main street), across from the Parish Church of St. Mauritius and the Metzibrücke Bridge. This traditional hotel with two restaurants is a great place to stay if you’re traveling without a car. No parking available on-site.

Look for accommodation in Appenzell.

Weissbad Village

Weissbad is a quiet village in Schwendetal Valley between Appenzell and Wasserauen.

Situated on the Gossau–Wasserauen train line of the Appenzell Railways, Weissbad is a great base for exploring the region. It takes a mere 6 minutes to reach Appenzell village by train.

Midrange | Weissbad Lodge, not to be confused with the nearby sister property of Hotel Hof Weissbad (luxury), is a comfortable accommodation with spacious, modern rooms and free on-site parking. The lodge is located on the bank of the Sitter River, just a block away from the Weissbad train station and bus stop. The only negative is the self-service breakfast.

Luxury | Hotel Hof Weissbad accommodates luxury-minded travelers with its two restaurants and bar, two swimming pools, fitness center, spa and wellness area. Breakfast and parking are included in the room rate. The price is rather steep.

Look for accommodation in Weissbad.

Schwende Village

Schwende lies in Schwendetal Valley, just south of Weissbad.

This village is also located along the Gossau–Wasserauen train line, with direct connections to Wasserauen, Weissbad, and Appenzell.

Midrange | The family-run Hotel Frohe Aussicht, which means “happy outlook,” is a hillside hotel and restaurant surrounded by beautiful countryside. It’s a short uphill walk from the Schwende train station to the hotel. Guests love the views and the restaurant!!!

Fählensee, Alpstein, in Appenzellerland,Switzerland

When to Visit Appenzell

This Swiss region is very rich in its traditions.

The procession of cattle to alpine pastures takes place every year from mid-May to June. Alpine herdsmen, clad in traditional costumes, and carrying a milking pail (Fahreimer), lead the bell cows up to the alp for the summer.

Side note: the single long golden earring – shaped like a snake – that the men wear in one ear is an ancient symbol of fertility and protection against snake bites. During the ascent, the herdsmen sing and yodel. From mid-August to the end of September, the descent (Alpabzug) takes place in a similar fashion. You can see photos of this cattle drive in our guide to Almabtriebe in the Alps.

We visited in early August, which was perfect for hiking. Serendipitously, the Folk Music Festival was taking place in the town of Appenzell during our visit. Music is an important way in which Appenzeller people uphold their cultural heritage. We were able to hear traditional music, like multi-voice yodeling, and see locals clad in their vibrant traditional attire.

We recommend timing your trip with a local festival. Here are some annual events that would be memorable to see:

December 31st & January 13th: New Year’s Mummers (Silvesterkläuse) – Dressed in grandiose costumes, the Silversterkläuse process from one farm to another ringing cowbells and performing a Zäuerli, which is a traditional wordless natural yodel.

Maundy Thursday (Thursday before Easter) – Ash Wednesday: Carnival. in Appenzell, Carnival is celebrated with Ommetronmmere (drumming) and with the Botzerössli (hobby horses and riders). The wooden hobby horse procession mainly takes place on Saturday.

Fourth Sunday in Lent (March) – Bonfire Sunday has its roots in pagan ceremonies that were designed to drive away the winter and exhilarate the fertility of the fields.

Mid-May to June: Alpine Cattle Drives (Ascents to the alpine pastures)

June-August – Alpine Festivities, hosted by herdsmen, take place on various alps and in mountain inns.

Early-August: Folk Music Festival in Appenzell

Mid-August to end of September: Alpine Cattle Drives (Descents from the alpine pastures)

It’s very easy to romanticize this region as a visitor. However, living in a traditional society has its challenges and downsides too. The women of Switzerland didn’t earn the right to vote until 1970 (very late by European standards). But, the women of Appenzell Innerrhoden weren’t granted the right until 1990 (cringe).

Saxer Lücke, Alpstein, Switzerland | Moon & Honey Travel

Best Things to Do in Appenzell, Switzerland

Our favorite experiences

Seealpsee, Alpstein, Switzerland — Seealpsee, Alpstein

Hike to Seealpsee and Berggasthaus Äscher

Seealpsee is a beautiful alpine lake in the Alpstein. You can hike to the lake from Wasserauen in about 1 hour and 30 minutes. We opted for the upper forest trail rather than the paved valley road.

The trail begins steeply and ultimately plateaus in a picturesque alpine pasture. On our way to the lake, we checked out a dairy farm and admired the bell-wearing, horned cattle grazing about freely.

After encircling the peaceful Seealpsee, we ascended the steep trail to the mountain inn Äscher (1 hour), where we had a hearty lunch. Next, we hiked 20 minutes to the Ebenalp mountain pasture to catch the next cable car down to Wasserauen.

Parking | There’s a large paid car park in Wasserauen. You can also easily get to Wasserauen by train.

Distance | 7.4 km point-to-point

Time Needed | 3:45 hours

Difficulty | Moderate. On a technical level, it’s not difficult. But, it’s strenuous, because of the altitude gain. The trail is well maintained and clearly signed.

Berggasthaus Äscher, Alpstein, Appenzell

Eat Lunch at Berggasthaus Äscher

Built into the side of the mountain, Berggasthaus Äscher is one of those places that romances you at first sight. This photogenic mountain guesthouse is a rewarding place to eat lunch after a strenuous hike. We devoured our Rösti (regional potato specialty: hashbrowns) and Appenzeller Käse (regional cheese) with great pleasure, and likely we’d have ordered more if we didn’t have to hike uphill. We were also astounded about how fast and kind the service was despite the number of people.

You can reach this mountain inn by hiking from Seealpsee (see experience above), or from the Ebenalp plateau, accessible by cable car from Wasserauen. Read our Ebenalp – Berggasthaus Aescher trail guide for more info.

Äscher is also closely located to the Wildkirchli Caves, which contain a cave chapel (1621) and a Hermit’s House, originally built in 1658 and reconstructed in 1972. Herdmen and hermits began selling food and drink here as early as 1800. The caves also were used in the Palaeolithic Era (45,000 to 30,000 BC) by hunters and gatherers. In the early 20th century, archeologists found prehistoric stone tools and the remains of about 800 animals.

Season | May – November 1st

Reservations | First Come, First Served

Fondue at the Appenzeller SchauKäserei in Stein

Visit the Appenzeller Schaukäserei in Stein

If the hiking hasn’t convinced you to come to Appenzellerland, then the cheese might. Appenzeller cheese is known for being kräftig (bold) and würzig (spicy). The unique flavor of the cheese is attributed to the quality of the milk as well as the herbal brine recipe, which is composed of a variety of herbs, roots, leaves, and flowers. The cheese is made from fresh milk of alpine cows that only feed on grass, hay and maize plants.

A great place to understand the Appenzeller cheesemaking process is at the Appenzeller Show Cheese Dairy in Stein. You can observe every step of the process and learn about how cheese-making and tradition are synonymous.

Connected to the showroom is a shop and a restaurant. We sampled a platter of cheese and their fondue made with white wine and cherry schnapps.

Admission | Free

Address | Dorf 711 | CH-9063 Stein AR

Hoher Kasten to Saxer Lücke Hiking Trail, Appenzell, Switzerland

Hike the Hoher Kasten – Saxer Lücke – Fälensee Trail

The Hoher Kasten to Saxer Lücke hike runs along the undulating Eastern Ridge of the Alpstein massif. This scenic high trail offers spellbinding views of the Rhine Valley as well as the Alpstein mountains.

Officially called the Geological Trail, this path links the Hoher Kasten summit, accessible by cable car from Brülisau, with the Staubern mountain inn, Saxer Lücke saddle, Fälensee Lake, and Sämtisersee Lake.

As you journey from the ridge-straddling Staubern mountain inn to the Saxer Lücke mountain pass, you’ll be treated to bird’s-eye views of Fälensee, cradled by a wreath of serrated peaks.

The descent to Saxer Lücke is accompanied by unimaginable views of the vertical Kreuzberg mountain chain. This is one of the most sought-after “photography” destinations in Switzerland.

The name Saxer Lücke (Lücke means gap in German) originated in the Middle Ages. A mule track led from Sax village in the Rhine Valley over Saxer Lücke to Brülisau village, thus connecting St. Gallen with Appenzellerland.

The trail continues to Berggasthaus Bollenwees located on the lakeshore of Fälensee (also spelled Fählensee) and then all the way down to Brülisau village.

Read our Hoher Kasten to Saxer Lücke Trail Guide for a complete and detailed description of this spectacular Appenzell hike.

Distance | 19.3 km circuit with cable car ascent

Time Needed | 6 hours

Difficulty | Moderate

Fählensee, Alpstein, Switzerland — Fählensee, Alpstein

Hike to Fählensee

Fählensee (also spelled Fälensee) is an alpine lake in the Alpstein mountain range. The mountain Inn Bollenwees is located on one end of the lake. On the other end, there’s a dairy farm. This is truly one of the most serene and dreamy places on earth.

The best way to experience the lake is by eating lunch at Bollenwees and walking along the lake to the farm. We stayed at the farm for an hour, watching the white Appenzeller goats return home from a strenuous day of grazing.

To reach this lake, follow the Geological Trail from Hoher Kasten (see above), or hike 2:30 hours from Brülisau.

Folk Music Festival in Appenzell, Switzerland — Folk Music Festival in Appenzell

Exploring the Town of Appenzell

Appenzell is a quaint town of 7,000 inhabitants in Switzerland’s Canton Appenzell Innerrhoden. It’s the cultural and political center of the region. When you’re in Appenzellerland, it feels like all roads lead to Appenzell, especially when you’re hungry.

What strikes you at first are the colorfully painted facades and curved gables of the wooden houses. Enveloped by bright colors and happy patterns, you can’t help but feel cheerful as you walk through the town center.

Here are two restaurants we enjoyed in Appenzell: Gasthaus Hof and Gass 17.