Vallon Popera and Rifugio Berti Hike in the Sexten Dolomites

Ringed by jagged, sky-piercing peaks, Vallon Popera is an overwhelmingly beautiful basin in the Comelico sub-group of the Sexten Dolomites. This mesmerizing mountainscape is home to Rifugio Berti and the small yet utterly enchanting Lago di Popera.

If you’re traveling without a car, you can start this tour at the Kreuzbergpass (Passo Monte Croce di Comelico), accessible by bus from Sesto-Sexten, San Candido-Innichen, and Dobbiaco-Toblach. Kreuzbergpass sits between the Sexten Dolomites and the Carnic Alps, serving as the connection between Val Pusteria in South Tyrol and Val Comelico in Belluno.

Those traveling by car can shorten the circular route by starting at the paid car park of Rifugio Lunelli (Google Maps) in Val Grande, Padola. 

Multiple routes lead to Rifugio Berti and Vallon Popera. I opted for the one recommended by Nicolas Wachtler, owner of Wachtler Apartments.

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Vallon Popera Hiking Map

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Vallon Popera Essential Trail Info

How to Get to Kreuzbergpass | Take Bus Line 446 from Toblach/Dobbiaco, Innichen/San Candido, or  Sexten/Sesto to Kreuzbergpass. 

Hiking Season | June – October, depending on current conditions. I hiked the trail in mid-October. 

Difficulty | Moderate – Moderately-Difficult. Between Forcella Pian della Biscia and Rifugio Olivo Sala, There’s one exposed section along a narrow ridge that’s only suitable for hikers who are comfortable with steep drop offs. 

Trail Variations | If you start the hike at Rifugio Lunelli, ascend the military road up to Forcella Pian della Biscia (1942 m). From here, follow the route as explained below. Alternatively, you can trace the official Anello del Vallon Popera lollipop trail, which is an easier option for those that want to skip the balcony-ledge path between Forcella Pian della Biscia and Rifugio Olivo Sala. 

Where to Eat | Rifugio Berti

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Kreuzbergpass – Vallon Popera – Rifugio Berti Trail Description 

Kreuzbergpass to Forcella Pian della Biscia (1:10 hours)

Behind Hotel Kreuzberg, follow trail 15 in the direction of Rifugio Berti across the ski slope into the forest. The trail follows a forest road uphill and reemerges at the top of the ski slope, where there’s a monumental view of the Sexten. Continue following trail 15.

At the next junction, turn left along trail 124 to Lago Dell’Orso (Bärensee) and Rifugio Berti. The trail crosses a depression, home to the grassy Lago Dell’ Orso, and then steeply ascends the forest. Views open up to the Carnic Alps, one of the Austrian-Italian border ranges.

Before arriving at the Forcella Pian della Biscia mountain pass, the trail joins a wide gravel track and passes a few WWI buildings. The view from the pass is mesmerizing, offering a tantalizing preview of the journey ahead.

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Forcella Pian della Biscia to Rifugio Sala (1 hour)

Turn right along the military road (trail 124). After about 15 minutes, you’ll arrive at a signed junction. Trail 124b to Ferrata Campanile Colesei (Klettersteig Arzalpenturm) is signposted, while trail 124 toward Rifugio Sala lacks signage. Nonetheless, veer left on the narrow path through dwarf pine, leaving the wide military road. 

The trail crosses the rugged southeastern flank of Arzalpenkopf (Croda Sora i Colesei). As the path develops into a balcony, there is a narrow stretch, initially secured with a fixed cable. Though this exposed ledge is short, I imagine it’s long enough for anyone who doesn’t like steep drop offs. 

With time, the trail descends, littered with loose rock and scree. 

A sharp right turn leads into a steep, secured gully. After crossing it, more fixed cables aid the demanding ascent, the most physically challenging section of the tour due to its punishing gradient.

As the trail evens out, Rifugio Sala (ruins), the command post of the Vallon Popera troops during the First World War, appears ahead.

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Rifugio Sala to Lago di Popera (35 minutes)

Turn right toward Laghetto Popera (trail 124) and ascend Creston Popera. From this beautiful perch, a heavenly panorama of the Vallon Popera basin unfolds before you. Just off the main trail, a marked viewpoint, Belvedere Creston Popera, identifies the surrounding towers and their direction. 

The route to Lake Popera is an effortless stroll, inviting leisurely steps across meadows sparsely peppered with young larch. As you near the small lake, the track gets increasingly rockier. 

A slender groomed path descends to the shore: no need to scramble down the slippery rocks for a great view.

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Lago di Popera to Rifugio Berti (25 minutes) 

Follow trail 101 to Rifugio Berti. The way, perfectly clear and easy to follow, leads gently down the high valley to Rifugio Berti. I made very slow progress, compelled to pause and turn around every few steps to savor the view.

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Rifugio Berti to Rifugio Lunelli (50 minutes)

I can’t speak to the food or hospitality of the hut, since the refuge was already closed for the season. There’s a water source (drink at your own risk) next to the hut.

Trail 101 twists down to Rifugio Lunelli in Val Grande.

Soon after leaving the hut, the trail crosses a stream, where there are some fixed footholds for security. Throughout the descent, there are a few steep rock steps to navigate, but overall the gradient is very pleasant. Your knees will be happy. 

The final stretch finishes along a flat forest path. 

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Rifugio Lunelli to Kreuzbergpass (1:30 minutes)

To complete the circuit, simply follow trail 155 all the way back to the pass. 

The route follows the old Monte Colesei military road to the third bend, then heads straight into the woods. It skirts the eastern slope of Colesei and continues to the meadows south of Montecroce Pass before ascending back to the pass.

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Where to Stay near Vallon Popera 

Kreuzbergpass – Passo Monte Croce

Hotel Kreuzberg Monte Croce sits directly at the Kreuzberg Pass, offering the convenience of starting several hikes right from the doorstep. However, its remote setting can feel rather dull and far removed from the buzz of Alta Pusteria. 

Another nearby option is Caravan Park Sexten, which offers luxury treehouses, chalets, and camping pitches. “The highlight of staying here is enjoying their expansive wellness and sauna area.

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Sesto – Sexten 

Sexten is a fantastic base for the Vallon Popera hike as well as numerous others like Val Fiscalina and Torre dei Scarperi Hike. You’ll find an impressive range of accommodations in Sexten and its hamlets of Moos and Waldheim, from farm stays and apartments to wellness hotels.

There are excellent self-catering accommodations in Sexten, offering one- or two-bedroom apartments, including Gamz Villa, Aparthotel Gamz, Villa Rainer Sexten, Paramount Alma Suites Sexten, and Ariane’s Guesthouse. 

The best hotels in Sexten are Hotel Royal (3-star), Hotel Schoenblick (3-star), Hotel Alpenblick (4-star), Berghotel Sexten (4-star), and Hotel Monika (5-star adults-only) 

For a budget-friendly stay, check out  B&B Grüne Laterne – Lanterna Verde. 

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San Candido

The charming town of San Candido in Val Pusteria is located between Sexten and Toblach. For hikers traveling without a car, it’s easiest to stay in the town center, walking distance to the San Candido train station and various bus stops. 

For apartment-style accommodation, take a look at Wachtler Dolomite Apartments (3-star apartments), Residence Kugler (3-star apartments), and Residence Silvia (3-star apartments). For a hotel stay, I recommend Hotel Orso Grigio (4-star hotel) and Post Hotel (4-star adults-only hotel).

Learn more: Where to Stay in San Candido

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Alta Pusteria Travel Guides

Upper Puster Valley

• Alta Pusteria Travel Guide

Braies – Prags Dolomites:

• Lago di Braies
• Hochalpenkopf Peak Hike
• Prato Piazza Plateau
• Monte Specie Summit Hike 
• Gaisl High Trail

Sesto – Sexten Dolomites:

• Sexten Dolomites Hiking Guide
• Tre Cime di Lavaredo Loop Trail
• Cadini di Misurina Viewpoint
• Torre dei Scarperi Circuit Hike
• 3-Day Tre Cime di Lavaredo Hike

Dolomites:

• Places to Visit in the Dolomites 
• Things to Do in the Dolomites
• How to Get to the Dolomites
• Best Time to Visit the Dolomites
• Day Hikes in the Dolomites

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