Hiking to Schesaplana: The Highest Mountain in the Rätikon Alps, Austria

At a height of 2965 m, Schesaplana is the highest mountain in the Rätikon Alps, a limestone mountain range that extends across Vorarlberg (Austria), Liechtenstein, and Graubünden/Grisons (Switzerland). 

The peak lies on the border between Austria and Switzerland. Unsurprisingly, routes lead to the summit from both countries. 

During our first visit, we ascended from Schesaplanahütte in Switzerland to Schesaplana along the Rätikon High Trail Circuit. 

More recently, we hiked to Schesaplana from Lake Lünersee in Vorarlberg (the eastern route). Lünersee is easily reached by cableway from Brandnertal (Brand Valley). The hike begins with an easy-going amble around the western edge of the lake followed by a straightforward ascent to Totalphütte (2385 m). From the refuge, the trail develops into a demanding alpine path with scrambling, secured sections, and snow field crossings. 

If you don’t like challenging, technical hikes, take a look at the Schafgafall hike, which also starts at Lünersee. Though less adventurous, it serves up arguably the best viewpoint of Vorarlberg’s most beautiful lake.

Keep reading to learn more about the Lünersee-Totalphütte-Schesaplana out-and-back hike.

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Schesaplana Hiking Map

To view an interactive map of this trail, check out our Lünersee guide.

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Lünersee – Totalphütte – Schesaplana Trail Difficulty

The hike to Schesaplana follows both white-red-white mountain trails (Lünersee to Totalphütte) and white-blue-white alpine paths (Totalphütte to Schesaplana). 

Beyond Totalphütte, the trail gets extremely rugged and technical. The limestone has good traction, but requires concentration. As you near the Schesaplana ridge, the limestone gives way to dark shale strata (layers), which is very uneven.

This area directly below the saddle is slippery and steep.

Before setting off, make inquiries about the snow conditions, starting with the tourist office in Brand. 

During our last visit in late July, we had to navigate steep snowfields and carefully maneuver around passages where fixed cables were buried under snow. 

We witnessed a lot of people struggling and unfortunately saw two falls as well as a mountain rescue operation. 

Snow can make this hike treacherous. Therefore, we only recommend hiking to Schesaplana when the trail is snow-free, or almost snow-free.

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Where to Start the Schesaplana Peak Hike

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Lünerseebahn Cableway Mountain Station

The Lünerseebahn cableway valley station is located at the head of Brand Valley. 

The cableway operates daily between mid/late May and mid/late October. 

Purchase an ascent and descent ticket. 

For exact operating times, dates, and prices, consult luenersee.at.

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Schesaplana Trail Description

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Lünerseebahn Cableway Mountain Station to Totalphütte (1:30 hours)

Exit the cableway mountain station and turn right, following the Lünersee-Rundweg.

After about 20 minutes, you’ll arrive at a signed junction. The trail to Totalphütte angles up to the right, leaving the Lünersee circuit trail. 

The stony path rises slowly amidst dwarf pine and low-lying shrubs. Even with the slightest elevation, Lünersee is a mesmerizing sight to behold. 

The traverse continues across more scree slopes and a gully, before zigzagging steeply uphill. 

Follow the waymarks, so you don’t miss a turn. 

Totalphütte is located on a small plateau above Lake Totalpsee, surrounded by stark mountain scenery. Managed by the Austrian Alpine Club, Totalphütte offers warm meals and cold beverages to day visitors and overnight guests. The terrace, spread with picnic tables, is a joyful place, where hikers and climbers gather for meals post-summit. 

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Totalphütte to Schesaplana (2 hours)

The trail leads east across a depression, initially along a comfortable and relatively-smooth path. 

The barren mountainscape, a duet of gray limestone and white snow, looks harsh and brutal, especially when compared to the softer green and blue scenery around Lünersee. 

The Schesaplana-bound route curves around a basin and then steeply ascends rock steps, marked with white-blue-white blazes and poles. 

After crossing an impossibly steep snow field (which we bypassed on the downward journey), the trail continues along a rise.

The ascent continues in stages to Tote Alpe. 

At the signed trail junction, head right to Schesaplana (1 hour). The left path leads to Gamsluggen (45 minutes), Schesaplanahütte (2:15 hours), and Gafalljoch (2 hours). 

About 20 minutes later you’ll come to another signed junction, which marks the start of the Südwandsteig. Ignore that trail and continue right again. 

The trail twists up a rock-littered slope, which presents little difficulty, despite how daunting it may look. There are cairns marking the way. 

It leads to “Kaminle,” a “break” in the ridge that runs southwest from Felsenkopf. This rugged section is secured with a cable. 

This was tricky for us, because the cables were buried beneath the old snow. 

Eventually, the trail curves around a basin, ushering you to the southeast flank of Schesaplana, characterized by sharp rock layers of shale, limestone, and gypsum (“Heller Kalk, Gips, dunklen Tonschiefer” in German). The chain-secured path runs through a shallow “ditch.” 

With people descending through the narrow “ditch,” we opted to ascend/scramble on the right side of the chain. 

The final stretch to the Schesaplana ridge is the most slippery, due to the deep, sandy-paste terrain.

As soon as you crest the ridge, the trail eases. Luckily, it’s only a few more meters to the Gipfelkreuz-crowned summit (150 meters / 5 minutes). 

The peak overlooks Brandner Glacier, Brand Valley, and the main Rätikon chain that straddles the border between Austria and Switzerland.

Unsure of the weather and nervous about the descent, we didn’t linger long. 

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Schesaplana to Lünersee (3 hours)

The descent was tricky in several places, mostly because of the snow.

By the time we reached Totalphütte, the sky darkened at an exponential rate. Within seconds, we felt the first drops of rain and heard the awakening rumble of the encroaching thunderstorm. 

We abandoned our plans to eat lunch at Totalphütte and hurried back down to the lake. 

By the time we reached the cableway mountain station, we were completely soaked. We patiently waited an hour to descend, as the cabelway doesn’t operate during a thunderstorm. 

All in all, the hike felt like an accomplishment.

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Where to Stay in Brand

Brand is the main holiday town in Brandnertal. We recommend staying in Brand, for the best accommodation and restaurant options and easy transit connections to Lünersee and Bludenz.

Top Choice – Midrange | Hotel Lün is a lovingly-run, carbon-neutral hotel with 15 rooms in Brand, about halfway between the Palüdbahn and Dorfbahn cableways. This small hotel stands out with its organic, homemade breakfast and rejuvenating wellness area (3 saunas, tea bar, and relaxation room). Read our Hotel Lün review.

Midrange | Hotel Garni Tannleger B&B offers modern well-kept rooms in the village of Brand. Guests are treated to a lovely breakfast. If you stay here 2+ nights during the summer season (May – October), you will be given a premium guest card, which gives you free and unlimited use of the local cableways (including the Lünersee cable car). 

Luxury | Hotel Sarotla is a luxury hotel with an on-site restaurant, bar, and wellness area directly across from the Dorfbahn cableway valley station and next to a golf course in the heart of Brand. 

More accommodations in Brand | Bergkristall (midrange), Hotel Sonne (midrange), Valavier Aktivresort (family-friendly luxury)

Look for accommodation in Brandnertal Valley.

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More Rätikon Alps and Vorarlberg Guides

Vorarlberg, Austria:

• Vorarlberg Hiking Guide

Rätikon Alps, Liechtenstein:

• Liechtenstein Panorama Trail

Lech am Arlberg, Vorarlberg:

• Lech am Arlberg Summer Hiking Guide
• Lake Formarinsee to Lake Spullersee, Lechquellen Mountains 
• Oberlech – Göppinger Hütte Hike
• Rüfikopf – Stuttgarter Hütte Hike
• Spuller Schafberg Peak Hike, Lechquellen Mountains

Silvretta Alps / Montafon, Vorarlberg:

• Hohes Rad Circuit Trail, Silvretta Alps
• Montafon Hut to Hut Circuit

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