Blissfully rural and tucked away from Slovenia’s tourist attractions, Pokljuka is a perfect destination to relax and slow down.
Traditional farming villages and mountain pastures dot the plateau in storybook fashion. Unlike so many other dreamy places in Europe, Pokljuka’s beauty isn’t cheaply mass-marketed. It seems to be wholly unaware of its assets – making it of course much more attractive to visit. Given the remoteness of this region, you’ll definitely need a car to explore the forested karst plateau of Pokljuka.
Top Things to Do in Pokljuka
- Planina Zajamniki
- Vodnikov Lookout, Koprivnik v Bohinju
- Debela Peč
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1. Hike, or Bike to Planina Zajamniki Mountain Pasture
Planina Zajamniki is a “too-beautiful-to-be-real” alpine pasture on Pokljuka. Over two dozen shingle-covered wooden cottages stretch out linearly across the open pasture. Traditionally, these wooden huts were the summer residences of dairy farmers and herdsmen tending to their cattle. In summer, it’s possible to purchase dairy products from the cottages. With the Julian Alps as a backdrop, it’s hard to compete with this place. It’s perfect!
How to get to Planina Zajamniki
You can mountain bike, hike, cross-country ski to Planina Zajamniki (1313 m). Here are the GPS Coordinates of Planina Zajamniki: 46.31152, 13.93716.
Hike to Planina Zajamniki
If you want to hike to Planina Zajamniki, head to Rudno Polje. It takes 2 hours to reach Planina Zajamniki on foot. After parking at Rudno Polje, walk to Planina Uskovnica (approx. 1 hour) and then continue in the direction of Planina Praprotnica to Planina Zajamniki (another hour).
If you look at a tourist map, it looks like there’s a shorter trail leading from Podjelje to Planina Zajamniki. We actually parked at the end of the road in Podjelje, where the trail to Javornica and Zajamniki starts. However, it felt like we were parking on private property. So, after meeting the farm property’s friendly guard dog, we decided to leave.
Bike to Planina Zajamniki
If you’re interested in mountain biking, here’s a biking route to Planina Zajamniki from Stara Fužina village near Lake Bohinj. You can also bike from Rudno Polje on Pokljuka Plateau.
Drive to Planina Zajamniki
You can drive directly to the alpine pasture via Goreljek. An unpaved road leads from Goreljek to Zajamniki, passing through Planina Jelje, Planina Konjska Dolina and Planina na Peceh. It’s a 15-20 minute drive (6.9 km) from the main road in Goreljek. Note: there’s no designated parking area near Zajamniki. Simply find a place to park on the gravel road, and then walk down to the alpine pasture.
2. Walk to the Vodnikov Lookout from Koprivnik v Bohinju
Koprivnik is a settlement on Pokljuka plateau. The focal point of the town is a white church, which is a convenient place to park your car. From the church in Koprivnik, you can take a 20-minute walk along path 11a to the scenic viewpoint: Vodnikov razglednik (Vodnikov Lookout). You’ll see a wooden signpost indicating the direction of Vodnikov razglednik near the church.
As you walk through the hamlet, you’ll pass traditional hayrack barns (Kozolec) scattered across the surrounding fields. These permanent wooden structures are used to dry hay and straw. The Vodnikov lookout delivers an epic view of Lake Bohinj, the Upper Bohinj Valley, and the Julian Alps. You’ll see the peaks of Vogel, Meja, Vrh nad škrbino, Tolminski Kuk among many others.
3. Visit Podjelje
Podjelje is a high-elevation settlement on Pokljuka. As you drive through Podjelje, you’ll see idyllic farmhouses positioned on sloping pastures. Time stands still. The views of the Julian Alps are absolutely stunning from here. There’s a trail that connects Podjelje to Javornica and Planina Zajamniki. However, there’s no good place to park. When you arrive at the road end (where the trail begins), you’re basically on someone’s private property (at least it feels that way).
4. HIke to Viševnik (2050 m)
A popular Pokljuka trail to consider is Rudno Polje to Viševnik. It takes 1:30 – 2 hrs (one-way) along a well-marked path to reach the summit of Viševnik. The elevation gain is 703 m, so it’s rather steep. Viševnik is considered one of the most accessible high peaks in the Julian Alps. We think this is a must-do hike when exploring Pokljuka.
Rudno Polje is also the trailhead for this southern Mount Triglav ascent route.
Learn More: Viševnik Hiking Guide
5. Hike to Debela Peč (2015 m)
Debela Peč is another mountain in the Julian Alps. It’s situated on the northern edge of the Pokljuka plateau.
You can find all the possible routes to Debela Peč here.
A popular starting point is Rudno Polje. The trail leads to the mountain pasture Planina Lipanca, where you’ll find the mountain hut Blejska koča. It takes 1 h 45 min to hike to Blejska koča na Lipanci from Rudno Polje. From Lipanca pasture it’s another 1 hr 15 min to Debela Peč peak.
Where to Stay in Pokljuka
We stayed at Alpine Homestead (former: Turistična kmetija Ročnjek), which is located in Gorjuše on the edge of Pokljuka Plateau. We loved that it was remote, yet well-connected to Bohinj and Bled. It felt like a secret – one that you simply don’t stumble upon.
The converted-farm is made up of three buildings. The first building houses a few apartments and the main dining room. The second farmhouse contains two family apartments and another two small apartments for single persons, or couples. Rooms are immaculately clean, comfortable, and well-equipped. The third building is in construction and will contain a hayloft for sleeping. Guests also have access to a communal kitchen, sauna and wellness area (available at an extra cost) and children’s playrooms. There’s even a rock-climbing wall for kids. If you’re traveling with children, Alpine Homestead is ideal.
The highlight for us was the home-cooking. We asked for dinner (20 EUR per person) and received a bountiful feast made just for us. The ingredients are sourced mostly from local farms. There’s no menu (refreshing, right?). You simply eat what’s fresh and seasonal. For dinner, we enjoyed a vegetable cream soup, followed by a wild boar goulash with knödel (dumplings), fresh salad, and a walnut-cottage cheese-apple cake. For breakfast, we were treated to a beautiful spread of cheeses, meats, fruits, and yogurts. Alpine Homestead accommodates all dietary restrictions – you just have to let them know in advance.
Compared to other tourist farms in Slovenia, Alpine Homestead is a bit overpriced. If you’re planning on doing a lot of hiking in Pokljuka, it makes sense to stay closer to the Rudno Polje trailhead. Šport Hotel Pokljuka’s location is perfect for day hiking in the Julian Alps.
Read Next: Where to stay in Slovenia in Summer
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