Plakias is a seaside town and laid-back holiday resort on the southwest coast of Crete, almost directly south of Rethymno. It lies in a large crescent bay between the dramatic rocky headlands of Kako Mouri and “Dragon.”
Set against a backdrop of olive groves and rolling mountains, Plakias couldn’t be more picturesque. The surrounding hillsides are spangled with white-washed villages like Sellia and Myrthios, where friendly family-run tavernas offer delicious home-cooked meals in an authentic setting.
We spent three weeks in Plakias in March and were captivated by the lush green landscapes, panoramic views of the bay, and the many nearby attractions: pristine beaches, dramatic gorges, and hilltop churches.
What we loved most was the genuine local vibe. Plakias isn’t just a place people visit; it’s a place people call home, full of friendly faces and a welcoming sense of community. Even as short-term visitors, we felt a real sense of connection to the place and the people who live there.
And like any tight-knit community, life moves at its own pace. Drivers pause to chat through open windows, unabashedly holding up traffic without a care in the world.
Here’s a look at everything we loved and uncovered during our winter sun escape to Plakias.
- Best Beaches: Souda Beach, Ammoudaki Beach, and Ammoudi Beach
- Top Attractions: Kourtaliotiko Gorge, Agios Paisios Church, and nearby Preveli Palm Beach
- Day Trips: Aradena Gorge, Loutro – Sweet Water Beach Hike, and Matala and Red Beach
- Where to Stay in Plakias: AELIA (budget-midrange), NERĒA Boutique Hotel (midrange), Belvedere Luxury Apartments & Spa (midrange-luxury), KYMĀNI Boutique Hotel & Suites (midrange-luxury), or AMÉNTE Mindful Stay (luxury)
- When to Visit: For active trips, visit during shoulder season (April – May and September – October), when most tavernas are open. For a relaxed beach escape, visit anytime between May and October.
- Crete Itinerary: 10-Day Crete Road Trip
- Where to Rent a Car: Discovercars.com
- Closest Airports: Chania Airport and Heraklion International Airport
1. Walk along the Plakias Promenade
The heartbeat of Plakias pulses along the seafront promenade that lines its main beach. You’ll find the most dining options along the northern end of the promenade, starting with the atmospheric Taverna Sirocco Plakias (Google Maps), a lively taverna with terraced seating, great food, and attentive service.
On the other side of the Plakias Pier, there’s a steady procession of seafront souflaki eateries, cafés, bars, and tavernas.
For goat-milk ice cream and excellent coffee, visit Candia café (Google Maps). Further down, Blu Café (Google Maps) serves great coffee and snacks.
Following the walkway further south in the direction of the Kako Mouri headland, you’ll pass several beach bars and accommodations, the best of which are Paligremnos Infinity and NERĒA Boutique Hotel.
2. Discover the Best Beaches around Plakias
The coastline around Plakias is dotted with beaches of all kinds. There are long, open stretches perfect for sunbathing, secluded coves for quiet swims, pebbly bays with crystal-clear water, and even a few spots where clothing is optional.
During the holiday season, all beaches offer sunbeds and umbrellas for a fee.
East to west, the best beaches around Plakias are Shinaria Beach (Skinaria), Ammoudi Beach, Ammoudaki Beach (Ammoydaki), Damnoni Beach, Plakias Beach, and Souda Beach.
3. Hike the Kako Mouri Headland Circuit Trail
This coastal loop trail begins at the eastern end of Plakias Beach and wraps around the rugged Kako Mouri headland, offering panoramic views of the bay, surrounding mountains, and the Libyan Sea.
From the Plakias Bay Hotel, follow a rocky path marked with blue waypoints southwest across sharp, veined metamorphic rock formations.
The trail curves dramatically around cliffs before descending toward Kalypso Cretan Village Resort, desperately in need of renovation. Pass through an ugly slate-gray arch and continue along a paved road to Kalypso Beach car park.
Climb the dramatic cliffside stairs and follow the coastal path to Damnoni Bay, passing a lonesome sheep station en route. If open, the beach tavernas at Damnoni make a great lunch stop.
Continue inland along a road between resorts, and at the many-forked junction, head roughly straight. After 270 meters, turn left, then right, following signs back to Plakias Beach.
The route winds through olive groves and fields, eventually reconnecting with the original trail to complete the loop at Plakias Bay Hotel.
For a more detailed description, read our Crete hiking guide.
Trailhead: Plakias Beach (Google Maps) | Distance: 5.4 km circuit | Time Needed: 2 hours | Elevation Gain/Loss: 141 meters | Difficulty: Easy – Moderate
4. Climb Up to Agios Paisios Church
Standing on a rocky summit, Agios Paisios Church commands magnificent views of the Damnoni, Ammoudaki, and Ammoudi beaches and the many peaks that encircle Plakias.
This whimsical stone church was built to commemorate the life of a young boy who lost his life far too early.
From the east-end of Damnoni Beach, we hiked the flower-lined trail up to the church. The views are marvelous, but the path is somewhat overgrown.
To locate the trail, walk to the east-end of Damnoni beach. Continue east on the road. You can already see the hilltop church.
When you intersect with the road leading to Ammoudaki Beach (never drive this road btw), turn left. You’ll pass a gated property on your right. The road soon curves to the right and then a rocky trail steeply ascends the hillside.
With elevation gain, you’ll be rewarded with enchanting views of this stone church. Its rocky perch, combined with its whimsical design, lends the church a magical, fairytale charm.
When the path plateaus, you’re nearly there. Continue straight for a few meters and then turn right and ascend the smooth stairway path up to the church.
Trailhead: Damnoni Beach (Google Maps) | Distance: 2 km out-and-back | Time Needed: 45 minutes | Elevation Gain/Loss: 100 meters | Difficulty: Easy
Driving Access | If you want to drive, follow signs to Ammoudi Beach from the Lefkogeia-Plakias Road (9310). After driving in the direction of the coast for about 800 meters, turn right here. This gravel road leads to the car park just below the church. Since we didn’t drive, I can’t speak to the road conditions of the church access road.
5. Eat Lunch in Sellia Village
Sellia is a small mountainside village overlooking Plakias Bay. You can take in the extraordinary sea views from this roadside viewpoint (Google Maps). For the best view of the village, continue west on the high road (Google Maps).
The main reason to brave the narrow windy road up to the village is to eat at Koueno Taverna (Google Maps), run by Irene and Nikos.
Expect a warm welcome and delicious food, including numerous vegetarian dishes and grilled meats. We loved the vegetarian cabbage rolls (lahanodolmades), stuffed peppers (yemista), local white cheese with peppers and tomato, and chicken in the oven.
6. Kourtaliotiko Gorge
There are two routes to reach Plakias from the north coast: one takes you through the Kourtaliotiko Gorge, and the other through the Kotsifou Gorge.
Although both gorges are impressive, Kourtaliotiko Gorge is breathtaking. The drive through the gorge alone will leave you awestruck.
Fortunately, visitors can reach the gorge waterfall viewpoint and the hidden Church of Saint Nicholas via a well-maintained stone-paved footpath.
Outside the high season, it’s easy to park at the small roadside lot (Google Maps), just a few meters south of the stone arch that marks the entrance to the Church of Saint Nicholas.
After passing through the archway, descend the smooth steps all the way down to the picturesque church and further to the lookout point of the Kourtaliotiko waterfalls.
This short and sweet 0.8 km walk takes 30 minutes out-and-back.
In high season, you may need to park at the official car park (Google Maps), just off the main road beneath the hilltop church ruin. There are numerous signs directing traffic to this point. In previous years, visitors have parked directly on the road, causing traffic jams and congestion. Authorities have installed orange cones along the road to prevent unlawful roadside parking.
From this official municipal car park, walk down to the main road and cautiously cross the street. Walk south in the direction of Plakias for 140 meters and then make a sharp left on the gravel road to the waterfall.
When the path divides, continue straight in the direction of Church Of Saint Nicholas and Kourtaliotiko Waterfall, signed Entrance B.
For more photos and information, read our guide to Kourtaliotiko Gorge.
7. Hike to Preveli Beach and through the Palm Forest
Preveli Beach is located east of Plakias along the southwest coast. This secluded beach is situated at the south-end of the Preveli gorge (Kourtaliotiko Gorge), where the palm-lined Preveli River (Kissano Faraggi) empties into the sea.
There are a few ways to access Preveli Beach and its indigenous palm forest: the west car park (Google Maps) and the east car park (Google Maps). From both car parks, you must hike to the beach. The consensus is that the western approach is far more scenic, but also more challenging.
When driving to the west car park, you can drive via Gianniou village and Preveli Monastery, or via Preveli Bridge. The road through Gianniou village is very narrow, but one-way luckily.
We walked down from the west car park in hiking boots (not sandals) on a breezy 20°C afternoon, and we didn’t find it difficult. It’s just a rocky and uneven staircase path.
From the car park, the trail leads south. After about 5 minutes, the trail divides. The left path detours to the famous viewpoint overlooking the Preveli river gorge. Return to the main path and continue descending to the beach. Shortly before arriving, pass through the gate and walk to the beach. You’ll see a taverna on your left (open seasonally).
Once you reach the beach, you can extend your walk through the palm forest along the bank of the river. Though there are riverside paths on both sides of the river, the left bank (or west bank) is longer.
There are several signs directing visitors to the Preveli palm forest trail; it’s impossible to miss. Turn left and follow the shady path on the left side of the river. It’s an oasis of craggy gorge walls towering over date palms and a river evocative of the Mekong Delta.
8. Drive the Coastal Road from Plakias to Rodakino
A spectacular coastal road connects Plakias with Rodakino. Heading west along Plakias bay, the road wraps around Souda Beach, ascends to the roadside Foinikias Kantina (Google Maps), and then winds through dramatic rock formations.
Next, the scenic coastal road leads to Korakas and Polyrizos Beaches. From Korakas, the way to Chora Sfakion (Skafia) turns inland and joins the high road from Sellia.
If you’re planning a day trip to Chora Sfakion, read our guides to Aradena Gorge and Loutro – Sweet Water Beach.
9. Hike up to Timios Stavros Church
A white chapel crowns the summit of Timios Stavros. Like any mountaintop, you can expect far-reaching panoramic views and a bit of an adventure.
To get here, initially follow the road from Lefkogia to Shinaria Beach. When the road divides, bear left. The right road leads to the coast. When the road splits again, bear left on the gravel road. Drive a few meters and park at this location: Google Maps.
Walk up the hairpin gravel road for 20-25 minutes. When the wide gravel road ends, a stone paver pathway begins. After about 5 minutes, the pathway gives way to a rocky trail marked with blue dots. Hike up another 5 minutes to reach the summit church.
10. Find a Unique Place to Stay
Plakias Accommodations
If you stay in an apartment, or villa, we recommend buying produce and Zoumberakis wine at this small grocery shop (Google Maps), local goat-milk yogurt from Farma Sellia at SM Peristeraki Super Market (Google Maps), and cheese at Τυροκομείο Τζουρμπάκη (Google Maps).
Budget – Midrange | AELIA offers seafront apartments in an excellent location and at an affordable price.
Midrange – Luxury | Top-rated Belvedere Luxury Apartments & Spa enjoys a town-center location near Plakias Beach. If you’re in the mood for a little extra pampering, you’ll love having breakfast delivered to your room each morning, relaxing by the outdoor pool (open seasonally), and unwinding at the spa (treatments available).
Midrange – Luxury | KYMĀNI Boutique Hotel & Suites is a small boutique hotel with impeccably-designed rooms, an outdoor swimming pool, and a tasty breakfast delivered to your personal terrace. The hotel is walking distance to the Plakias Promenade and Beach.
Luxury | AMÉNTE Mindful Stay is a stylish, design-forward luxury hotel offering a serene escape with just 10 beautiful rooms. Guests can enjoy an outdoor pool, a fitness room, and an optional breakfast, all in a calming, minimalist setting designed for mindful relaxation. The hotel is located on the main road leading into Plakias.
If you’d like to stay close to Plakias Beach, consider Paligremnos Infinity and NERĒA Boutique Hotel.
Nemesis Villas offers 3-bedroom, fully-equipped villas, perfect for families with children.
Damnoni Accommodations
Kakomouri Headland separates Plakias Bay from Damnoni Bay. Damnoni boasts a full sweep of beachfront tavernas and a series of hidden beaches like Ammoydaki and Ammoudi.
Budget-friendly Mythos Apartments offers spotless and practical lodging at an unbeatable price near Damnoni Beach.
Myrthios Accommodations
Located above Plakias, the small mountain village of Myrthios (also spelled Mirthios) is an option for those traveling with a car. Though only a 6-minute drive away from Plakias Beach, lovely Myrthios feels worlds away.
Overlooking Plakias Bay, accommodations in Myrthios generally offer seaview rooms and apartments. The best places to stay are: STELLA in the village (budget), Chrisanthi Studios & Apartments (budget), Fedra Suites Myrthios (midrange-luxury), and Mirthea Suites (midrange).
For meals, eat at Taverna Dionyssos (Google Maps) for an authentic taste of Cretan cuisine in a warm, welcoming setting. Step into the kitchen to select the freshly prepared dishes of the day, just like a local.
More Crete Travel & Hiking Guides
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