The wild southwest coast of Crete is home to dramatic gorges, staggering beaches, and possibly the best hiking trails on the island. Of all the wonders along the coast, Loutro village and Sweet Water Beach stand out as true highlights.
As both destinations are only accessible by boat or by foot, it makes sense to visit Loutro and Sweet Water Beach on a coastal hike, following a scenic stretch of the E4 long distance trail.
If you’re staying in Chora Sfakion (aka Hora Sfakion, Sfakia), you can hike to Loutro and return by ferry or water taxi—or take the ferry first and hike back. If you’re based in Loutro, the trail makes for a rewarding out-and-back hike, as there is no need to walk the final stretch along the road to Chora Sfakion.
Alternatively, you can access the route from Aradena Village, like we did. After hiking through Aradena Gorge, we joined the E4 to Loutro and continued all the way to Chora Sfakion.
- Starting Point: Loutro | Google Maps
- Ending Point: Chora Sfakion
- Distance: 7.4 km point-to-point
- Time Needed: 2:45 hours
- Elevation Gain/Loss: 200 meters
- Difficulty: Difficult
- Minimum Elevation: 0 meters
- Maximum Elevation: 101 meters
- Where to Stay in Chora Sfakion: Sofia’s Lovely Rooms (budget), Authentic Village Boutique Hotel (midrange), and Ventus Luxury Suites (midrange)
- Where to Stay in Loutro: Villa Niki (budget), Hotel Porto Loutro on the Hill (midrange), or Daskalogiannis Hotel (midrange)
Loutro – Sweet Water Beach – Sfakia Hiking Map
Essential Trail Info
How to Get to Loutro from Chora Sfakion | Take the Anendyk Seaways ferry, or a water taxi to Loutro. Athitis Lines and Deligiannis Lines operate water taxis along the southwest coast.
Hiking Season | Spring (March – May) or Autumn (October – November). Due to the heat and lack of shade along the route, avoid hiking this trail in summer.
Trail Direction | You can hike the coastal trail either way.
Difficulty | Although the Loutro – Sfakia coastal hike is short, it’s quite challenging. Coastal hiking often conjures images of easy, smooth paths—but this hike is anything but that. It’s rocky, uneven, and sometimes exposed. Because the cliffs are continuously eroding, the trail may be different each year. During our hike, part of the path was broken, which made the hike even more difficult. This coastal hike is not recommended for hikers who experience vertigo.
Trail Variations | If you want to hike a longer stretch of the E4 path, read our Aradena gorge trail guide, which describes the section from Marmara Beach to Loutro.
Where to Eat | Mermaid Island Taverna at Sweet Water Beach. Note: tavernas along this route are open seasonally.
Safety | Bring sufficient water, wear sun protection, and only hike this route if you have a head for heights.
Loutro – Sweet Water Beach – Chora Sfakion Trail Description
Loutro to Sweet Water Beach (1 hour)
Clear signage mounted on walls and buildings guides hikers toward Sweet Water Beach, leaving little room for confusion.
From the village, the E4 trail ascends and heads east, tracing the coastline.
At first, the path runs alongside some fencing. We’re not sure if the ugly fencing was installed to protect goats or hikers from falling.
The trail is clearly marked, etched into the crumbling ochre and cream cliffs, and is initially very smooth and easy to follow.
About 20 to 25 minutes from Loutro, however, the path is abruptly interrupted by a landslide.
Navigating this section requires extra caution and a careful descent over an exposed step. Hopefully, by the time you hike this route, repairs will have been made.
Beyond that point, the trail holds no more uncomfortable surprises.
It continues across the pebbly stretch of Perivolakia Beach, shadowed by a slowly eroding cliff.
From there, the path crosses the less spectacular Timios Stavros Beach and then rises, passing the whitewashed chapel of the same name.
Eventually, the trail brings you to a stunning natural viewpoint facing the cliffs of Sweet Water Beach (Glyka Nera), where the stark beauty of the landscape is on full display.
From there, descend to the beach, named for the freshwater springs that run beneath it.
Open seasonally, there is a floating taverna called Mermaid Island just off the shore.
Like many secluded beaches around Crete, Glyka Nera is nudist-friendly.
Sweet Water Beach to Hora Sfakion (1:45)
From the eastern end of the beach, the trail clambers across a rugged, weathered rockscape where broken cliffs tumble into the sea.
As you weave between boulders and navigate loose stone underfoot, keep an eye out for the occasional black-and-yellow waymarks that guide your way through the crumbling terrain.
The footing here is uneven and demanding—take your time and move carefully.
One short section of the trail is equipped with a fixed cable for safety.
With sheer cliffs rising to your left and the endless blue Libyan sea stretching out to your right, the path begins to level and soften. The sense of being on a proper trail returns.
Soon, you’ll find yourself on a breathtaking ledge path, carved directly into the rock face. Though dramatic in appearance, the ledge is safe and secured with chains.
After this cinematic stretch, the path climbs a rocky slope to join a well-constructed trail that zigzags up the cliffs to reach the paved road.
Those hiking out-and-back from Loutro should turn around here latest.
Once you reach the road, it’s about a 40-minute walk to Chora Sfakion. Hopefully, fellow travelers can give you a ride.
Where to Stay
Chora Sfakion
Home to 265 inhabitants, the white-washed village of Chora Sfakion boasts a lovely harbor, a beach, and a delightful collection of tavernas and accommodations. Most accommodations don’t have on-site parking, but provide free parking within walking distance
Budget | Sofia’s Lovely Rooms is a cheerful guesthouse with air-conditioned rooms and a secret garden–a quiet oasis in the heart of Sfakia.
Budget – Midrange | Adults-only The Authentic Village Boutique Hotel features 14 attractive, air-conditioned rooms, equipped with COCO-MAT handcrafted beds as well as kettles and coffee machines.
Midrange | Ventus Luxury Suites offers modern air-conditioned rooms, some with private jacuzzis, near the harbor. Breakfast is available at an extra charge.
Midrange-Luxury | Built into the cliffs above the ferry port, Panorama New Generation impresses with its modern seaview rooms, swimming pool, and fabulous breakfast.
All accommodations in Chora Sfakion.
Loutro
Top-rated accommodations in Loutro are surprisingly affordable, making it all the more tempting to extend your stay.
Budget | Villa Niki is a budget-friendly guesthouse, offering studios and apartments, many of which have sea views.
Budget – Midrange | Top-rated Hotel Porto Loutro on the Hill features air-conditioned rooms as well as an on-site restaurant and bar. Breakfast is included in the rate.
Budget – Midrange | With its beachfront setting, air-conditioned rooms, and complimentary breakfast, Daskalogiannis Hotel is another great option in Loutro.
More Crete Hiking & Travel Guides
Hikes:
- Best Hikes in Crete
- Katholiko Bay Hike
- Lissos Gorge Hike
- Red Beach Trail in Matala
- Kourtaliotiko Gorge
Travel:
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