The Greek Island of Crete is a mountainous isle furrowed with over 400 gorges. Excellent roads cross the mountains, often through gorges, connecting the north and south coasts and its many mountain villages.
This rugged and wild island offers splendid hiking trails, impressive drives, and delicious, home-cooked meals. Here in the land of premium olive oil and amber-colored honey, life slows down to a life-affirming pace.
Crete is a seasonal holiday destination, with a busy summer season and a sleepy winter season. We visited in March, trading in our SAD Lamp for some Cretan winter sun. It was magical: sunny, quiet, and relaxing. However, shoulder season (April – May, September – October) is an optimal time to visit, as more tavernas are open and key ferries are operating at higher frequencies.
Our Crete road trip showcases the best of West Crete, starting and ending at the Chania Airport. Follow this route in late winter when you need to escape mainland Europe, or in spring and autumn.
Note: we didn’t include the famous Samaria gorge hike, because it’s only accessible from May 1st until October 31st. If you visit during that time frame, definitely add it to your Crete itinerary.
- Day 1: Chania Old Town and Venetian Harbor
- Day 2: Katholiko Gorge and Seitan Limania Beach
- Day 3: Sougia and Lissos Gorge
- Day 4: Imbros Gorge and Chora Sfakion
- Day 5: Aradena Gorge
- Days 6: Loutro and Sweet Water Beach
- Days 7-9: Plakias Bay
- Day 10: Kourtaliotiko Gorge and Rethymno
- 3 Nights in Chania
- 3 Nights in Chora Sfakion
- 3 Nights in Plakias
Crete Road Trip Map
DESTINATIONS
Where to Stay
Akrotiri Peninsula
Sfakia
Preveli Beach
Rethymno
How to Book this West Crete Road Trip
Accommodation
Book 3 nights in Chania | Minaret Suites & Apartments (budget), Amphitrite Hotel (budget-midrange), Theta Seaside Boutique Hotel (budget-midrange), Malmo Historic Hotel (midrange), Casa Delfino Hotel & Spa (luxury),
Book 3 nights in Sfakia | Sofia’s Lovely Rooms (budget), The Authentic Village Boutique Hotel (budget-midrange), Ventus Luxury Suites (midrange), or Panorama New Generation (midrange-luxury)
Book 3 nights in Plakias | AELIA (budget-midrange), Paligremnos Infinity (midrange), Belvedere Luxury Apartments & Spa (midrange-luxury), KYMĀNI Boutique Hotel & Suites (midrange-luxury), or AMÉNTE Mindful Stay (luxury)
Car Rental
We recommend using the Discovercars.com car rental reservation platform to search for and book car rentals in Crete.
This intuitive booking platform compares car rental deals from numerous trusted suppliers, so that you can choose the best option for your trip.
What to Pack
I recommend packing hiking boots, reef shoes (booties), sunglasses, a sun hat, a microfiber towel, and swim suit.
The tap water in Crete is drinkable. We both packed two SIGG – Reusable Water Bottles, which we used daily.
Day 1: Arrive in Chania
Chania (pronounced and also spelled Hania) is the second largest city in Crete, set between the Akrotiri and Rodhopou peninsulas along the northwestern coast.
Assuming that you arrived in the Chania Airport, pick up your rental car and drive 20 minutes to Chania.
Depending on where you stay in Chania (Old Town, Koum Kapi, Halepa, Nea Chora), your accommodation may or may not have on-site parking. For an overview of the best areas and accommodations, read where to stay in Chania.
After checking into your accommodation, dedicate the rest of your day to exploring the narrow lanes of the Old Town and the Venetian Harbor.
For a well-rounded introduction to Cretan cuisine, eat dinner at Chrisostomos (Google Maps). For an atmospheric night out in a trendy brasserie, housed in the ceramic art studio of Alexandra Manousakis, eat dinner at the seafront Maiami (Google Maps). And for contemporary Mediterranean flavors, eat at Salis (Google Maps) in the Venetian Harbor.
Before sunset, trace the sea wall of the Venetian Harbor out to the lighthouse for the most captivating view of Chania, backed by snow-capped mountains.
Stay in Chania
Kati and I stayed 3 nights in the modern Theta Seaside Boutique Hotel, advantageously situated between the Venetian harbor and Koum Kapi neighborhood. We loved our stylish sea-view room, the easy parking (large free car park across the street), the location, and warm hospitality.
Old Town | Minaret Suites & Apartments (budget), Amphitrite Hotel (budget-midrange), Malmo Historic Hotel (midrange), Casa Delfino Hotel & Spa (luxury), AZADE Chania (luxury), and Monastery Estate Venetian Harbor (luxury)
Koum Kapi | Hyperion City Hotel & Spa (midrange-luxury)
Halepa | Skins Concept (2-bedroom apartment) Tanneries Hotel & Spa (luxury), Domus Blanc Boutique Hotel (luxury)
Day 2: Katholico Gorge and Seitan Limania Beach
Breakfast in Chania
In winter, Theta Seaside Boutique Hotel doesn’t offer breakfast at their partner café. So, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast at Bakery Patisserie & Coffee Shop Ntourountous Chania 1866 Square (Google Maps).
For coffee, Monogram (Google Maps), located on the corner of Chatzimichali Ntaliani and Daskalogianni, sells the best coffee in town. And Pallas (Google Maps), at the Venetian Harbor, is the best option for brunch.
During your stay in Chania, we recommend devoting half-a-day to Akrotiri peninsula, starting with Katholiko Monastery and ending with Seitan Limania Beach. Alternatively, you can book this Full-Day Private Seitan Limani Boat Tour from Chania.
Katholiko Monastery, Bay and Gorge
For centuries, Katholiko Monastery was a sanctuary where monks embraced a life of asceticism. Hidden among rugged cliffs, they lived in humble caves and remote hermitages, dedicating their days to prayer, meditation, and self-denial.
Katholiko thrived during the Byzantine and Venetian eras. However, in the 17th century, relentless pirate raids forced the monks to abandon their sacred refuge, leaving behind the ruins we see today.
While monastery ruins interest many, it’s not the primary reason we recommend visiting. Below the Katholiko monastery church, a trail drops down to the spectacular Katholiko Gorge. A mostly level, but rocky path winds between the soaring limestone walls of the gorge to reach the coast and Katholiko Bay.
Starting at the Gouverneto Monastery car park (Google Maps), this 4.3 km out-and-back hike takes around 2:10 hours.
Read our Katholiko Gorge trail guide for a complete description.
Seitan Limania Beach
Before returning to Chania, drive 25 minutes to the Seitan Limania Beach car park (Google Maps).
Cradled between rugged cliffs, Seitan Limania is a striking S-shaped inlet where creamy turquoise waters brush against white rock. The dramatic contrast of colors and wild beauty has earned it a reputation as one of the most stunning beaches in Crete.
A short circular path, measuring no more than 0.5 km, connects the car park to the beach. Heading clockwise, it’s a steep descent to the beach across very rugged and loose rocky terrain. Sturdy shoes are essential. Although just as steep, the way back is easier, thanks to the fixed chains, recently installed for safety purposes.
More things to do around Chania
- Archaeological Museum of Chania
- Manousakis Winery (tasting by appointment only)
- Gramvousa Island & Balos Beach
Stay a Second Night in Chania
Top accommodations in Chania | Minaret Suites & Apartments (budget), Amphitrite Hotel (budget-midrange), Theta Seaside Boutique Hotel (budget-midrange), Malmo Historic Hotel (midrange), Casa Delfino Hotel & Spa (luxury), and Monastery Estate Venetian Harbor (luxury)
Read: Where to stay in Chania.
Day 3: Sougia and Lissos Gorge
Though I would have been content to laze around, hopping between cafés and shops, Kati wanted to drive to Sougia on the southwestern coast to hike the Lissos Gorge circuit trail. I’m very glad I followed along without too much resistance, because it was a wonderful day trip.
The serpentine mountain road to Sougia is in excellent condition and sufficiently wide. However, it’s important to drive cautiously, because there are many goats and sheep that roam about freely.
During our early March visit, the tiny seaside village of Sougia was almost entirely shut down, apart from the Smaragdus taverna (Google Maps), where we savored a delicious lunch after hiking Lissos Gorge.
This short and sweet hike leads through the narrow Lissos Gorge, inhabited by at least 100 goats, before climbing up to a plateau. With broad views of the rugged coastline, the trail descends to Church of St Irene and then joins a road down to Sougia. It takes around 2:30 hours to hike the 6.3 km loop trail.
Stay a Third Night in Chania
In winter, we recommend returning to Chania. Between mid-April and mid-October, you may want to stay in the secluded countryside Monastery Estate Retreat near Sougia.
Top accommodations in Chania | Minaret Suites & Apartments (budget), Amphitrite Hotel (budget-midrange), Theta Seaside Boutique Hotel (budget-midrange), Malmo Historic Hotel (midrange), Casa Delfino Hotel & Spa (luxury), and Monastery Estate Venetian Harbor (luxury)
Day 4: Imbros Gorge and Chora Sfakion (Sfakia)
Drive to the white-washed seaside village of Chora Sfakion (also spelled Hora Sfakion) on the south coast. The capital of Sfakiá is a rugged, mountainous region with a proud history of resistance against Venetian and Ottoman rule. Across Greece, the people of Sfakia are known for their bravery and fierce independence.
On the way to Chora Sfakion, you can hike through Imbros gorge.
With sweeping views of the sea, the road descends in broad serpentines to Sfakia.
Imbros Gorge
The Imbros Gorge hike starts in the hamlet of Imbros and ends in the hamlet of Komitades. Those who park in Komitades, typically take a taxi to the starting point and hike downhill one-way. Those who park in Imbros, either hike out-and-back part way, or take a taxi from Komitades back to Imbros at the end of the hike.
We hiked out-and-back from Imbros to an area just beyond the Leonidas Bar, a shack that sells drinks (high season only).
The beginning of the hike is underwhelming. Be prepared to walk 1:15 hours to reach the most striking section of the gorge: a narrow, serpentine canyon with sheer sides.
Where to Park in Imbros | We parked at the car park next to Kalinorisma Taverna (Google Maps). However, we don’t recommend parking there for two reasons: (1) the car park isn’t free when the taverna is open and (2) by parking here, you extend the hike unnecessarily. Heed our advice and park across the bus parking at Porofarago Restaurant (Google Maps – park here). If you look at the google maps images, you can better visualize where people park.
Entrance Fee | During the “summer season,” there is a small entrance fee. The ticket booth is located near the start of the hike.
Stay in Chora Sfakion
Home to just 265 residents, the whitewashed village of Chora Sfakion exudes effortless charm with its lovely taverna-lined harborfront and inviting beach.
While most accommodations don’t offer on-site parking, free parking is typically available just a short walk away.
Budget | Sofia’s Lovely Rooms is a cheerful guesthouse with air-conditioned rooms and a secret garden–a quiet oasis in the heart of Sfakia.
Budget – Midrange | Adults-only The Authentic Village Boutique Hotel features 14 attractive, air-conditioned rooms, equipped with COCO-MAT handcrafted beds as well as kettles and coffee machines.
Midrange | Ventus Luxury Suites offers modern air-conditioned rooms, some with private jacuzzis, near the harbor. Breakfast is available at an extra charge.
Midrange-Luxury | Built into the cliffs above the ferry port, Panorama New Generation impresses with its modern seaview rooms, swimming pool, and fabulous breakfast.
All accommodations in Chora Sfakion.
Day 5: Aradena Gorge
The hike through Aradena Gorge is staggeringly beautiful, and honestly the highlight of our Crete trip.
The gorge descends in steps to the sea, and the trail alternates between flat rocky paths and steep boulder and scree descents, where you’ll need to use your hands. Though the hike is difficult, it’s precisely waymarked (red-white) and there are no scary sections. The infamous ladders are easily avoided.
Take a taxi (or a bus, if operating) from Sfakia to Aradena village and hike through the gorge to Marmara Beach. If the weather is mild, ambitious hikers can continue hiking all the way back to Sfakia along the coast, following the E4. That’s what we did, but it’s a challenging hike with some difficult passages.
If you want to end the hike in Marmara Beach, it’s imperative to secure the number of a taxi boat operator in advance and confirm that a pick-up is possible.
For a complete trail description and taxi information, read How We Hiked Aradena Gorge.
Stay a Second Night in Chora Sfakion
Top Accommodations in Chora Sfakion | Sofia’s Lovely Rooms (budget), The Authentic Village Boutique Hotel (budget-midrange), Ventus Luxury Suites (midrange), or Panorama New Generation (midrange-luxury)
Day 6: Loutro – Sfakia Coastal Trail
The idyllic white-washed village of Loutro is only accessible by boat, or by foot. If you ended the Aradena gorge hike in Marmara Beach, dedicate today to the coastal trail between Sfakia and Loutro. The hike passes the most impressive beach in Crete: Sweet Water Beach.
To be perfectly candid, this is a very challenging coastal trail, which requires surefootedness, a head for heights, and comfort navigating tricky paths. When we hiked the route, part of the path was broken off due to a landslide.
If the hike sounds too difficult, travel to Sweet Water Beach and Loutro by taxi boat, or ferry.
In terms of direction, it’s probably best to hike from Sfakia to Loutro, so you can end the hike with lunch and a swim in one of the most enchanting destinations on the island. Definitely return to Sfakia by boat (rather than hike out-and-back).
Learn More: Loutro – Sweet Water Beach – Sfakia Hike
Stay a Third Night in Chora Sfakion
Top Accommodations in Chora Sfakion | Sofia’s Lovely Rooms (budget), The Authentic Village Boutique Hotel (budget-midrange), Ventus Luxury Suites (midrange), or Panorama New Generation (midrange-luxury)
Days 7 – 9: Plakias
Plakias is a relaxed seaside town and holiday retreat on Crete’s southwest coast, 40-km east of Chora Sfakion. Nestled in a sweeping bay, framed by rolling mountains and olive groves, Plakias is one of the island’s most attractive destinations.
To truly soak in its stunning beaches, scenic hikes, and unique hilltop churches, we recommend spending at least three nights here. We stayed in Plakias for three weeks and didn’t want to leave.
Drive to Plakias
A scenic road cuts east across the foothills of Oros Angathes, the mountain range neighboring the White Mountains, connecting Hora Sfakion with several mountain hamlets.
In Kato Rodakino, you can either descend to the coast and follow the coastal road to Plakias, or stay on the high mountain road to Sellia. Both ways are gorgeous, but we particularly loved the high road.
In Sellia, eat lunch (or dinner) at the wonderful Kouneno Sellia Taverna (Google Maps), run by the warmest hosts: Irene and Nikos.
Stop by the roadside viewpoints for a picture-perfect view of Sellia village (Google Maps) and one of Plakias Bay (Google Maps).
From Sellia, you can either drive directly down to Plakias following a very narrow and curvy road. For an easier and wider option, continue driving east to Myrthios village and drive down from there.
What to See and Do in Plakias
With two full days in Plakias, we recommend beach hopping, hiking the Kako Mouri headland circuit trail, visiting Agios Paisios Church above Damnoni Bay, and hiking down to Preveli Palm Beach. If you extend your stay, it’s worth doing a day trip to Matala and Red Beach.
I’ve outlined all the best things to do in our Plakias Travel Guide.
Stay Three Nights in Plakias
Budget – Midrange | AELIA offers seafront apartments in an excellent location and at an affordable price.
Midrange | Paligremnos Infinity and NERĒA Boutique Hotel are located steps away from the best area of Plakias Beach.
Midrange – Luxury | Top-rated Belvedere Luxury Apartments & Spa enjoys a town-center location near Plakias Beach. If you’re in the mood for a little extra pampering, you’ll love having breakfast delivered to your room each morning, relaxing by the outdoor pool (open seasonally), and unwinding at the spa (treatments available).
Midrange – Luxury | KYMĀNI Boutique Hotel & Suites is a small boutique hotel with stylish, impeccably-designed rooms, an outdoor swimming pool, and a tasty breakfast delivered to your personal terrace. The hotel is walking distance to the Plakias Promenade and Beach.
Luxury | AMÉNTE Mindful Stay is a stylish, design-forward luxury hotel offering a serene escape with just 10 beautiful rooms.
Tip | If you’re struggling to book accommodation in Plakias, extend your search to small mountain village of Myrthios: STELLA in the village (budget), Chrisanthi Studios & Apartments (budget), Fedra Suites Myrthios (midrange-luxury), and Mirthea Suites (midrange).
Day 10: Kourtaliotiko Gorge and Rethymno
Kourtaliotiko Gorge
The drive north to Rethymno takes you through the jaw-dropping Kourtaliotiko Gorge. The road itself is spectacular. But, don’t miss the short hike down the Kourtaliotiko Gorge waterfalls and Church Of Saint Nicholas.
I’ve explained where to park and how to find the hidden church in our Kourtaliotiko Gorge hiking guide.
Lunch in Rethymno
On the way to Chania Airport, stop in the city of Rethymno (also spelled Rethimno and Rethymnon) for lunch. During low season, there is ample free parking outside the citadel walls. We parked here.
If visiting on a Thursday, don’t miss the weekly market (Google Maps); it’s a great place to buy Cretan honey.
After exploring Fortezza of Rethymnon and the historic Old Town, we ate lunch at Stella’s Kitchen (Google Maps).
Rethymno Beach is famous for its nightlife. If you want to extend your stay, check out Effie’s cozy old town studios (budget-midrange), Casa di Gaga Luxury Suites (midrange), Fonte d’Oro Luxury Rooms (midrange), adults-only Amalen Suites (luxury), Mansio Boutique Hotel (luxury).
Drive to Chania Airport / Depart Chania
I hope you enjoyed following our itinerary. If so, please leave us a comment and let us know about your adventurous trip to Crete.
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