This spellbinding day hike is the ultimate excursion in Filzmoos, Salzburg, Austria. It’s a grand circuit tour which runs along the base of the Bischofsmütze and Gosaustein in the Dachstein Mountains.
Along this route, you will visit the Hofpürglhütte mountain hut, the Rinderfeld meadows, the Sulzenschneid/Eiskarlschneid spur summit, and the Sulzenalm mountain pasture. The whole hike is wondrous and unfolds beautifully.
This Filzmoos hike starts at Hofalm in Hinterwinkl valley. Hofalm is accessible by car via a toll road, or by bus (seasonal).
Though this hike is mostly a moderate one, it’s somewhat tiring because of the continuous rises and falls throughout. Hikers should be confident crossing boulder fields.
It’s possible to shorten the route by ascending from Hofalm to Rinderfeld via trail 617a/617 and then continuing on to Sulzenhals saddle.
- Trailhead: Hofalm | Google Maps
- Distance: 12.9 km circuit
- Time Needed: 5:15 hours
- Difficulty: Moderately Difficult
- Elevation Gain/Loss: 912 meters
- Minimum Elevation: 1259 meters
- Maximum Elevation: 1990 meters
- Route: Hofalm – Hofpürglhütte – Rinderfeld – Sulzenschneid/Eiskarlschneid – Sulzenhals – Wallehenhütte (Sulzenalm) – Hofalm
- When to Hike: June – October, depending on weather/snow conditions.
- Where to Stay in Filzmoos: Bauernhof Krahlehenhof (midrange), Das Anja Alt Filzmoos (midrange), or meiZeit Lodge (luxury)
- Recommended Trail Map: Dachstein WK 0281 1:50 000 (Freytag & Berndt)
Hofpürgl Hut to Sulzenalm Trail Map
How to Get to Hofalm, Filzmoos
Car
From Filzmoos, drive north to Hofalm via the toll road.
At the toll booth (Mautstelle), someone will collect payment. If no one is operating the booth, use the machine to purchase the toll. Once the payment is processed, the gate automatically opens.
Toll Prices | 5.50 EUR for cars
Payment | Cash Only
Drive to Hofalm | Drve 4.3 km to Hofalm. About 3 km from the toll booth, the road divides. You can either drive left to the Unterhofalm car park or right to the Oberhofalm car park. Both roads lead to Hofalm, but the Unterhofalm car park is closer to the trailhead.
Bus
The FIDIBUS Sommer bus (Wanderbus) connects Filzmoos with Hofalm.
Bus Ticket | You can purchase your ticket from the bus driver.
- Adults: 5 EUR
- Children (ages 0-14): 2:50 EUR
This bus is free for Filzmoos Sommer Card holders.
Timetable | The Fidibus (Wanderbus) is in operation until late October. Download the current timetable here, or ask the Filzmoos tourist office for the “Wanderbus Fahrplan.”
Hofalm – Hofpürglhütte – Rinderfeld – Eiskarlschneid – Sulzenalm Trail Description
Hofalm to Hofpürglhütte (50 minutes)
From the car park at Unterhofalm, pass the stables and follow trail 612 north to Hofpürglhütte.
After crossing a rocky stream bed, the trail ascends up grassy slopes and pockets of larch forest.
With elevation gain, the path wanders up dwarf pine and views open up to Sammetkogel (2049 m), Hohes Kreuz (2837 m), Hochkesselkopf (2453 m), and Torstein (2948 m).
Shortly before reaching the mountain hut, there’s a junction. Make a sharp right onto the Linzerweg (Linzer Steig).
Or, detour to Hofpürglhütte, the mountain hut which stands on a grassy ridge, for refreshments and/or toilets. This refuge is usually open from early June until early October.
Hofpürglhütte to Rinderfeld (1:30 hours)
Follow the Linzerweg/Linzer Steig east, in the direction of Rinderfeld (1:30 hours) and Sulzenhals (3 hours).
The trail traverses the boulder/rock-filled Kesselwand below the Bischofsmütze.
The route takes you up and over a dwarf-pine-covered spur to reach the Kesselwand trail junction (1750 m).
Continue on the lower trail to Rinderfeld, signed 1 hour (trails 601/617). After an easy jaunt across a meadow, the trail rises and falls continuously. You’ll cross several graben, which look like stone rivers tumbling down from the mountains.
After a stream crossing, the trail descends and then traverses grass and scree slopes. The trail then rolls down to a boulder slope. Cross this sea of rock to reach the grassy meadow area of Rinderfeld.
Unteres Rinderfeld to Eiskarlschneid (1:30 hours)
From the Unteres Rinderfeld (Lower Rinderfeld) junction, it’s possible to head down to Oberhofalm and Unterhofalm, signed 50 minutes.
Unless the weather takes a bad turn, ignore the turn-off and continue in the direction of Sulzenhals (Trails 601/617), signed 2 hours.
The trail crosses the meadow and then climbs up to the higher pasture area of Rinderfeld. At the Rinderfeld signed junction (1760 m), take the right trail to Sulzenhals.
Rinderfeld can be very muddy. The trail wanders off to the right, away from the cluster of boulders, gathered at the foot of the towering limestone walls.
After crossing the meadow, the trail descends amid larch, dwarf pine, and alpenrose. Fortunately, not too much elevation is lost.
When you emerge from the forest, you’ll see the Sulzenschneid spur.
The path zigzags up the spur slope for about 20 minutes.
When you crest, turn left and follow the grassy path to the Sulzenschneid junction (1950 m) and onwards to the Gipfelkreuz (peak cross) at Eiskarlschneid (1990 m).
The Sulzenschneid/Eiskarlschneid summit offers panoramic views of the Bischofsmütze and Gosaustein.
Eiskarlschneid to Sulzenhals (15 minutes)
Facing the north slope of the isolated Rötelstein mountain, hike down to the Sulzenhals saddle (1827 m). The Rötelstein summit is a riveting hike, though best tackled separately.
Sulzenhals to Sulzenalm (30 minutes)
At the saddle, turn right to Sulzenalm.
The trail gently descends through dwarf pine and larches to reach a sloping pasture area.
With views of Bischofsmütze, cross the meadow to the Wallehenhütte (1608 m) hut at Sulzenalm.
Eat lunch here, or at Krahlehenhütte, the alpine pasture hut just below.
These huts are cash only.
If the weather is stable, both huts stay open until the end of October.
Sulzenalm to Hofalm (45 – 50 minutes)
Follow the gravel road in the direction of Filzmoos. Shortly after passing two private huts, the trail to Hofalm branches off to the right.
Cross the rolling pasture in the direction of Bischofsmütze.
The final leg twists down steeply to Hinterwinkl.
When you reach level ground, follow the wide track to the farm road. Turn left on the road.
At the next trail intersection, you can either turn left to Hofalm, or turn right in order to detour to the alpine chapel, Kapelle Maria am Steinegg’l, and Almsee Lake.
Where to Stay in Filzmoos
Midrange | Bauernhof Krahlehenhof is a traditional farm with double rooms, family rooms, and apartments. Set in an idyllic location, this lovely accommodation offers a wonderful breakfast, a welcoming and authentic atmosphere, and cozy interiors. We ate a delicious dinner here during our last visit to Filzmoos.
Midrange | Das Anja Alt Filzmoos offers rooms and apartments in the heart of Filzmoos. Stay here for the intimate setting, excellent location, and lovely rooms. Guests receive the Filzmoos Sommer Card.
Top Choice – Luxury | meiZeit Lodge is a tastefully-furnished boutique hotel in the town center of Filzmoos. Stay here for the generous breakfast buffet (included in rate) and relaxing wellness facilities (Finnish pine sauna, bio herbal sauna, infrared relaxation loungers, relaxation zone, and vital drink bar). This charming accommodation also serves a complimentary afternoon cake selection between 3:00 and 5:00 pm.
Luxury | Hotel Neubergerhof is located on a plateau in the Ski Amadé Ski Area, 6 km from the town center (10-minute drive). The room rate includes breakfast & dinner (half board). Stay here for the quiet surroundings, mountain surroundings, rich breakfast buffet and outstanding multi-course dinner, and friendly staff. Guests have access to an indoor swimming pool, family sauna, and adults-only wellness area (Finnish sauna, bio sauna, steam bath, relaxation room).
More accommodations in Filzmoos: Haus Ratgeb (budget), B&B Landhaus Vierthaler (midrange)
Look for accommodation in Filzmoos.
Hikes around Filzmoos
Filzmoos:
Ramsau am Dachstein:
Schladming:
Salzburg:
Austria Trip Planning Essentials
Use our Austria Travel Guide and Austria blog archive to plan a unique and memorable trip to Austria.
When to Visit Austria
Summer and early Fall are our favorite seasons in Austria.
Getting around Austria
Austria has an excellent public transit system. We’ve used it extensively to travel throughout the country. We highly recommend using transit if you’re visiting cities (Vienna, Salzburg, Innsbruck, Graz, etc…), and/or doing hut-to-hut hikes.
Some areas like Mayrhofen, Schladming and Lech am Arlberg have wonderful seasonal transit systems in place (e.g. summer hiking buses). However, if you’re not visiting during the high season, bus frequencies are significantly reduced and it’s far easier to get around with your own vehicle.
If you’re planning on visiting multiple destinations across Austria, we recommend renting a car.
Use these road trip itineraries for trip planning inspiration:
- 2 Week Austria Road Trip – starting in Vienna
- 1 Week Austria Road Trip – starting in Salzburg or Munich
- 10-Day Bavarian Alps & Tyrolean Alps Road Trip – starting in Munich
Car Rental
We recommend using the Discovercars.com car rental reservation platform to search for and book car rentals. This easy-to-use booking platform compares car rental deals from 500+ trusted providers, so that you can choose the best option for your trip.
If you’re driving into Austria from a neighboring country, don’t forget to purchase a vignette at/near the border.
Hiking in Austria
Where to Hike in Austria
Read Austrian Alps Hiking Destinations for an overview of where to hike in Austria, with tips on specific trails and where to stay. Also check out Best Day Hikes in Austria and these region-specific hiking guides:
- Salzburg Hiking Guide
- Filzmoos, Salzburg Hiking Guide
- Schladming, Styria Hiking Guide
- Lech am Arlberg, Vorarlberg Hiking Guide
- Vorarlberg Hiking Guide
- Vienna Mountains Hiking Guide
Hut to Hut Hiking in Austria
Austria is a premier hut-to-hut and long-distance hiking destination. The quality of the mountain huts are superb. We particularly love the high-alpine trails, which are called Höhenwege in German. We’ve summarized our favorite multi-day hikes in Trekking Austria. If you’re new to hut hiking, read this in-depth guide to Hut to Hut Hiking in Austria.
Hiking Essentials
- Day Pack: Osprey Tempest 30 Women’s Backpack / Osprey Talon 33 Men’s Backpack
- Grade B/C high-cut hiking boots: Meindl Schuhe Island Lady (Kati’s Boots), Women’s Hanwag Tatra II GTX (Sabrina’s Boots), Men’s Hanwag Tatra II GTX (men’s equivalent)
- CAT 4 Sunglasses: Julbo Shield Mountain Sunglasses
- Hiking Poles: Black Diamond Trail Trekking Poles
- Backpack Camera Clip: Peak Design Camera Clip
What to See & Do in Austria
- Visit a gorge like the Liechtenstein Gorge in Salzburg.
- Bathe in thermal pools of an Austrian Therme like Aqua Dome in Tirol.
- Stay in a thermal spa hotel like Rogner Bad Blumau (designed by Friedensreich Hundertwasser) in Styria, EurothermenResort Bad Ischl in Upper Austria, or Aqua Dome Hotel in Tirol.
- Hike to a mountain lake like Lake Drachensee in Tirol or Lake Tappenkarsee in Salzburg.
- Go Wine Tasting in South Styria.
- Marvel at the culture, music, and architecture of Vienna.
- Eat heartwarming mountain food in an Almhütte at Grosser Ahornboden in Tirol or Ursprungalm in Styria.
- Drive the Grossglockner High Alpine Road in Hohe Tauern National Park.
- Visit the castles, monasteries, and wine taverns of the Wachau Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.