Montenegro Itinerary

Rent a Car in Podgorica

Podgorica is the starting point for this Montenegro road trip. You can reach Podgorica by flying, or by bus. If flights to Podgorica are expensive, consider flying to Dubrovnik (Croatia) and then taking a bus to Podgorica. Check out rental cars in Podgorica.

Drive to Komovi

After collecting your rental car in Podgorica (the capital of Montenegro), start the drive inland in the direction of the Komovi mountains. The drive to the base of the Komovi mountains, Štavna, takes 2.5 hours. Štavna is a high pasture dotted with katuns (herdsmen settlements) on the slope of Kom Vasojevićki. As you make your way out of the capital, you’ll start to see fruit stands on the side of the road as well as the occasional restaurant. Off to the right, there’s a deep canyon that merits a few photos! As you drive further inland, you’ll pass through a series of tunnels that escorts you deeper into the mountains. All the roads were in good condition – just the occasional pothole.

Things to do in Komovi

You’ll likely arrive in Štavna in the afternoon. After settling into your chalet at Eko Katun Štavna, you can explore the katun (temporary herdsmen settlement), that’s located very close to your accommodation. We loved the remoteness, ruggedness, and authenticity of this area. There’s very little tourism in Komovi, so you’ll have a peaceful introduction to Montenegro if you start your trip here. 

Stay in Eko Katun Štavna, Krajišta

Eko Katun Štavna (Ethno Village Štavna) is comprised of 10 chalets. Each chalet can sleep 5 to 6 people. There’s an on-site restaurant that makes delicious, homemade Montenegrin cuisine. Eko Katun Štavna is also located directly at the starting point for all hikes in the Komovi mountain range. So, it’s an ideal place to park, sleep, eat & drink before and after hiking. We recommend making a reservation in advance. Price: 38 EUR per chalet per night.

Day two begins with a delicious and traditional Montenegrin breakfast of feta cheese, sliced tomatoes and cucumbers and priganica sa sirom (fritters with cheese) at Eko Katun Štavna. After breakfast, we recommend hiking in the Komovi mountains.

Hike to Kom Vasojevićki Summit

Kom Vasojevićki, the handsome peak reaching an elevation of 2461 m, is a great choice for a half-day hike. This is a 4 – 4.5 hours return hike, with a total ascent gain of 710 meters. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to hike to the summit, because of the weather. In terms of finding the trail, walk towards the mountain that dominates the landscape. Veer uphill and to the right of the katun and you’ll soon see yellow trail signs.

For other hiking ideas in the Komovi mountains, we recommend the book Mountains of Montenegro. To learn more about the Komovi mountain range, read Summitpost’s Komovi Post.

Drive to Grebaje Valley

After a rewarding hike, it’s time to start the drive to Prokletije National Park – Montenegro’s best-kept secret. We recommend basing yourself in Grebaje Valley (also spelled Grbaje Valley), which is a 15-20 minute drive from the town Gusinje. This scenic and narrow valley has a few accommodation options and restaurants.

Note: There’s a 1 EUR national park fee per day per person. You’ll pay this upon entering Grebaje Valley.

Stay in Grebaje Valley, Prokletije National Park

We stayed at Bungalows Katun Maja Karanfil. This accommodation has the best views of Dolina Grebaje, especially during sunset. From Maja Karanfil, it’s a 1-5 minute walk to any of the hiking trailheads. Maja Karanfil is also a restaurant. Each bungalow sleeps, 4 people. Another option in Grebaje Valley is Bungalows Prokletije. Their wooden cabins are a bit larger than the ones in Katun Karanfil. Guests are really pleased with the hospitality and food here.

You have a full day to explore the Accursed Mountains of Prokletije National Park. We recommend prioritizing the hike to Volušnica. This easy-moderate hike rewards you with the most awe-inducing views of the Karanfili peaks and the Albanian Alps.

Hike to Volušnica and Talijanka

• Hike to Volušnica and Talijanka (Popadija).  In total, the hike takes 6 hours.
• From the valley floor, it takes 2 hours to reach Volušnica. The hike continues along a ridge trail to the peak Talijanka (Popadija). When you reach the Talijanka summit, you’ll be standing directly on the Montenegrin-Albanian border. The view is mind-blowing. Important Tip: hike here mid to late afternoon. If you hike in the morning, the sun will blind your mountain views.

To learn more about visiting this beautiful area, read our guide to Prokletije National Park.

Stay in Grebaje Valley

Bungalows Katun Maja Karanfil, or  Bungalows Prokletije.

Hike in Prokletije National Park

Before continuing your road trip deeper into Prokletije National Park, we recommend doing another day hike in the Grebaje Valley. We hiked the loop trail to the glacial cirque Krošnja and the arch Kissing Cats, which took almost 7 hours. The initial ascent is a bit tedious and not very exciting, but as soon as you start traversing the Karanfili slopes, you’ll vibrate with happiness. We’d classify this trail as difficult. You can learn more about this hike and other options in this Prokletije National Park hiking guide.

Trails & Directions: It’s important to research Prokletije hiking trails before arriving in Grebaje Valley. From our experience, wifi isn’t reliable. In addition, the staff has limited knowledge of mountain trails. Wikiloc was a huge help for us in researching trails pre-trip as well as following-trails during the hikes. Note: you can download offline maps and follow specific trails, but there’s a small subscription fee.

Stay in Bajrovica Katun or Grebaje Valley

After hiking to Kissing Cats, we drove to a farm stay in Bajrovica Katun, which is situated along the Peaks of the Balkans trekking route. We booked our accommodation via Meanderbug, a farm-stay-accommodation platform. The drive to this Katun was long (1 hour 45 minutes) and along a very poorly maintained road. Regular (low) cars will have a hard time making the journey. We loved staying here and experiencing rural life in Montenegro. We were treated to delicious homemade and organic meals and slept in a cozy A-frame hut. However, given the length of the drive, we recommend either spending an additional night at the farm stay or staying one more night in Grebaje Valley.

After breakfast in the farm’s gazebo, you can hike to the nearby lake Hrdisko Jezero. Rimmed by trees, this delightful walking destination is a nice-to-do, not a must-do.

Hike to Hrdisko Jezero

• It takes 1 hour to reach the lake via a dense forest path.
• The easy-to-follow trail follows the Peaks of the Balkans route.

Drive to Žabljak

The drive to Žabljak, the gateway to Durmitor National Park, traverses the rural heart of Montenegro. As you near Žabljak, the drive becomes increasingly more beautiful. You’ll drive along Tara Canyon and below rugged mountains.

Stay in Žabljak

Žabljak is the best base for exploring Durmitor National Park. We recommend staying in the town center so that you are walking distance to various restaurants and the main park entrance. Here are a few options:

Budget | Hostel Hikers Den is the perfect choice for backpackers and solo travelers. This lively spot is situated directly in the center of town, walking distance to the park and all restaurants.

Mid-Range | Vuk Popovic is a very clean and spacious apartment fully furnished and stocked with necessary amenities. The apartment can sleep up to 4, or 5 people.

Luxury | Hotel Soa is the best accommodation if you want a spacious modern room, an excellent breakfast and spa facilities. The hotel is perfectly situated between the city center and the Crno Jezero (Black Lake).

Welcome to Montenegro’s crown jewel: Durmitor National Park. This is a fantastic hiking destination – possibly the best hiking area in the entire Balkans. We wrote an in-depth guide (with map) to hiking in Durmitor National Park. Check it out!

Hike in Durmitor National Park

• Crno Jezero (Black Lake) – This glacial lake is located only 10 minutes from the park entrance and walking distance from Žabljak. To reach the lake, you’ll walk along a flat, paved road. This lake marks the trailhead for many park trails. 
• Planinica – This is a high alpine plateau that gives you arguably the best view in the entire park. It takes 4.5 hours to reach Planinica, so this is a long day hike. The hike starts at Crno Jezero (Black Lake). 
• Bobotov Kuv – This is the highest peak in Durmitor National Park. This is an intermediate hike, but the last 10 minutes require using assisted ropes (which are a little too loose for comfort). We highly suggest bringing hiking poles. The trailhead is Sedlo. You can hike to Bobotov Kuv from Crno Jezero, but that’s not recommended. 

Visiting Durmitor National Park

• There’s a 3 EUR entrance fee to the park per day. If you intend to hike 3 days, you can purchase a discounted ticket of 6 EUR (as of 2018).
• Trails are very well maintained and easy to follow. There’s ubiquitous easy-to-follow signage marking turns and directions.
• The best time to hike in Durmitor is between late June and late September. We hiked in early September and we had outstanding weather.

Stay in Žabljak

Hostel Hikers Den (Budget), Vuk Popovic (Mid-Range), or Hotel Soa (Luxury).

Day 8 of your Montenegro road trip is a thrilling adventure filled with epic roads, delicious food, and heart-expanding views.

Drive the Sedlo Route: P14 Žabljak – Trsa – Plužine

Prepare yourself for one of the most beautiful drives in all Montenegro. You’ll begin the day by driving the Sedlo Pass Route from Žabljak to Piva Lake. The route winds through the heart of Durmitor National Park, passing a treeless paradise where the mountains take center stage. At the beginning of the route, you can stop for coffee in the cozy cabin Konoba Lomni Do.

There are a number of trailheads located along the P14 route. If you get an early start, you could potentially hike to Mount Prutaš or even Skrka Lakes Valley from Todorov Do. Mount Prutaš looks like a 20-layered deli-sandwich flipped on its side. It’s a beautiful site from the road, but we’re sorry we didn’t get a chance to summit it. If you decide to squeeze in one more hike, it would be better to overnight around Plužine and save the drive to Kotor for the next day.

Eat Lunch in Plužine

The route ends at Piva Lake. Cross the lake and have lunch in the town Plužine. We recommend eating at Restoran Sočica, a lovely restaurant with ample outdoor seating. From Plužine, the drive continues to the underwhelming lake Slansko.

Visit Njeguši

We decided to drive around lake Slansko and take P15, followed by P23, to the town Njeguši, before descending into Kotor. This segment of the drive is long and windy, so if you’re already feeling tired, you might want to navigate to Kotor via P11. The pros of taking the long windy route to Njeguši was the opportunity to eat the regionally famous – which really should be globally famous – Njeguški pršut (smoked ham) and Njeguški sir (smoked cheese). After a very enjoyable break here, we continued the drive to Kotor.

Drive the Serpentine Road to Kotor

The drive to Kotor from Njeguši is a steep hairpin road known as the Serpentine Kotor Road. We arrived at the top of the road at golden hour, that time of day when the landscapes soften to pastel tones and the sun makes its final act. There are many lookout points and opportunities to stop to enjoy the view along the way. 

Stay in Kotor

Look for accommodation in Perast, Kotor, Orahvoac, and Prčanj. All of these towns are located close to each other along the Bay of Kotor. 

Budget | Apartments Nadja is a spacious and comfortable apartment-complex in the town of Orahvoac, which is situated between Kotor (10 min drive) and Perast (5 min drive). Make sure to get a room with a balcony! 

Mid-range | Apartments Residence Portofino is a gorgeous accommodation in Kotor with an outdoor pool overlooking Kotor Bay. Views are phenomenal.

Luxury | Hotel Casa del Mare – Amfora, located in Orahvoac, is described as heaven on earth. With a small private beach, free breakfast, on-site restaurant and tastefully designed rooms, Hotel Casa del Mare is the ultimate vacation choice. 

After a week in the mountains, it’s time to relax by the sea. Today, explore the old town of Kotor, walk along the bay and gorge yourself with seafood. Surrounded by mountains, the Bay of Kotor is undeniably good looking. You’ll be enchanted from the very moment you arrive. 

Things to do in Kotor

• Ladder of Kotor – a hike that offers amazing views of the bay. 
• Hike to Kotor’s Fortress (Castle of San Giovanni) – walk up here for the best view of Kotor. 3 EUR entrance fee.
• Explore the old town of Kotor
• Take a side-trip to the town Perast
• Visit our Lady of the Rocks, an artificial island with a church

Stay in Kotor

Stay a second night in Apartments Nadja, Apartments Residence Portofino, or Hotel Casa del Mare – Amfora.

It’s difficult to say goodbye to charming Kotor. Luckily, the drive around Kotor Bay is captivating, making the farewell less bitter. As you drive along the bay (in the direction of Lepetane), you’ll pass beautiful waterfront estates, countless fishing boats, and flowering trees. The white stone buildings with wooden shutters and terra cotta roofs complement the clear blue waters of the bay. It seems like every property is a vacation rental or apartment complex. The water is alive with swimmers, sunbathers, and water polo players. The whole area evokes the ultimate seaside holiday feeling. And, it’s oh so hard to leave.

Things to do in Luštica Peninsula

Today’s destination is Luštica, the peninsula which has the Adriatic Sea on one side and Kotor Bay on the other. The highlight of our coastal drive was the village, Rose. And like a rose, the idyllic seaside town is just lovely. We enjoyed lunch at the restaurant, Adriatic Rose. Service was slow, but the food was delicious.

• Explore the town of Lepetane (if you can find a parking spot)
• Take a dip in the shallow calm waters of Plavi Horizonti Beach, or Žanjice Beach
• Visit the village Rose and eat lunch at Adriatic

Stay in a Farm in Luštica Peninsula

We stayed at the Old Mill, a farm stay, which we booked through Meanderbug. The 400-year-old-farm makes olive oil, wine, and other products. It’s an experience seeing the old wooden olive oil press that is still in use hundreds of years later. With views of Kotor Bay and goats, pigs, and chickens on the premises, it’s a real getaway. As we drank a bottle of house wine and ate our mussel-rice dinner on the balcony overlooking Kotor Bay, we heard the howling of jackals.

The Budva Riviera is a strip of Adriatic coast around the town Budva. Here you’ll find Montenegro’s prettiest coves, most iconic architecture, and dreamy islands. You’ll also find tasteless resorts and overcrowded beaches. 

The Old Walled Town of Budva and Mogren Beaches

Budva has a reputation for being a tourist hot spot and a magnet for partiers. We explored Budva in the mid-morning and had a really lovely time.  After walking through the charming and congested streets of the old town, we walked along the coast to Mogren beaches (there are two). These beaches reminded us of the Algarve. Flanked by towering orange-colored cliffs, the Mogren coves offer a wonderful place to indulge in a full day at the beach. We spent at least two hours here. The beach is family-friendly. The sand is coarse, but not painful – the perfect size that feels like a foot massage. From the beach, you’ll have a great view of the triangular shaped Sveti Nikola Island.

Parking Tip: We found a free parking area on the main highway. From the parking spot, it took about 15 minutes to walk to the old town.

Lunch at Paštrovica Dvori

After Morgren Beach, we made our way to the restaurant Paštrovica Dvori, located high above Sveti Stefan. The owner is very welcoming. Products on the menu are either fresh or homemade (olive oil, cheese, smoked ham, olives). Everything we ate was delicious. And, the cherry on top is the view of the fortified island Sveti Stefan. After lunch, continue driving up the road to the stone chapel called Sveti Sava Church. From here, you’ll have sweeping views of the Budva Riviera. 

Visit more Budva Riviera Beaches

• Pržno Beach. Family-friendly cove with beautiful scenery.
• Rijeka Reževići Beach. A tiny hidden gem. There’s a small café at the beach that serves yummy Mediterranean food.
• Lučica Plaža. Nice beach, but crowded. 
• Plaza Buljarica. Long pebbly beach. The water is clear, but it’s less kind to the feet. It is a perfect place for a sunset dip, as the beach was nearly deserted when we arrived.

Stay in the Budva Riviera

We recommend staying anywhere between the towns of Budva and Petrovac.

Budget | We stayed in Apartments Viktorija, a clean, comfortable and affordable apartment in Petrovac, near Plaza Buljarica. It looks like they’re now accepting bookings with a 3-night minimum stay.

Mid-Range | Luxury Apartment Stefan is a lovely apartment with a terrace overlooking Pržno Beach, one of our favorite beaches in Montenegro.

Luxury | Hotel Riva is a stylish hotel with memorable views of the sea and the old town of Petrovac.

Your Montenegro itinerary continues to Ulcinj, a town on the Albanian border. Before you continue the drive, consider visiting a few more beaches.

Improve our itinerary: Instead of rushing down to Ulcinj today, build in an extra full day to enjoy the Budva Riviera. Our route works, but it would have been more relaxing if we spent a second night here, before continuing the journey south.

Detour to Stari Bar

On your way to Ulcinj, you can take a detour to the old town of Stari Bar. The old fortified town is more of a ruin, but it’s enlivened by the many restaurants and shops lining the walls. It’s difficult to understand the historical significance of the town without proper context. There were a few info boards, but a tour would have been helpful.

Explore Ulcinj

Ulcinj is a vibrant seaside town. Though our time in Ulcinj was quite short, we were really happy we included it in our Montenegro travel itinerary. Your visit should begin with the Old Town of Ulcinj. Though not as well-preserved as other towns in Montenegro, it’s still captivating. Definitely check out the Sunset Beach Bar, which is accessible from the Old Town, but located outside the walls on the edge of the sea. For dinner, head to Fisherman Hari for delicious freshly-caught fish. This was hands down the best fish we ate during our trip.

Ulcinj is also a beach destination. If you walk south along the coast, you’ll see many seaside restaurants, beach clubs, and coves. Women should head to Ladies’ Beach, a woman’s only beach that is completely fenced off and guarded so women can bathe in complete peace and comfort. If you’re into adrenalin sports, Velika Plaža is a popular beach for kite surfing.

Stay in Ulcinj

Budget | Guesthouse Maritimo is a comfortable accommodation with sea views, a balcony, and a perfect location.

Mid-Range | Apartments Secret Garden is a thoughtfully-designed apartment-style accommodation in the center of Ulcinj. Bonus: an outdoor swimming pool.

Luxury | Hotel Pirate Old Town is located within the walls of the old town. Facing the Adriatic Sea, Hotel Pirate boasts the best views in town.

Your two weeks in Montenegro are nearly over, but we have a delightful surprise for you. After enjoying your morning in Ulcinj, drive inland to Lake Skadar.

Things to do around Lake Skadar

Lake Skadar is a large freshwater lake bordering Albania and Montenegro. You can explore the lake by joining a boat tour, renting a kayak, or simply by the road. This region is also famous for wine. So, if you have time, we recommend tasting your way through Virpazar and the surrounding region.

Stay near Lake Skadar

Stay in Apartment Pajovic. This spacious and light-filled apartment was our very favorite accommodation in Montenegro. Surrounded by pomegranate trees and rolling hills, it’s easy to lose track of time here. We arrived in the middle of the day and loved it so much that we just relaxed, played with puppies (there were 4), and enjoyed the solitude of our surroundings. Our hosts made us a yummy feast for dinner accompanied by a bottle of their homemade white wine. We’re still dreaming of the wine, and plotting our return to this incredible hidden gem near Lake Skadar. Guests who have more energy can go on a boat ride (organized by the host).

Pavlova Strana Viewpoint

Your Montenegro road trip concludes with one final scenic drive and a visit to Horseshoe Bend (Pavlova Strana Viewpoint). To reach the viewpoint, drive back to Virpazar and continue on P16. The best views are seen from the windy road that branches off to the left in the direction of M2.3 (highway). You can take that road to M2.3 and head directly to Podgorica. The whole drive takes 2 hours.

Where to Next?

Montenegro borders Albania. If you’re interested in traveling south, read our Albania Travel Guide. After dropping off our car in Podgorica, we took a bus to Shkodra (Albania) and embarked on this Albanian trip. If your journey is taking you north, check out our Slovenia Travel Guide for useful tips and top things to do.