Montenegro Itinerary: 2 Week Road Trip

Rent a Car in Podgorica

Podgorica is the starting point for this Montenegro road trip. You can reach Podgorica by flying, or by bus. If flights to Podgorica are expensive, consider flying to Dubrovnik (Croatia) and then taking a bus to Podgorica.

Rent a car in Podgorica.

Drive to Komovi

After collecting your rental car in Podgorica (the capital of Montenegro), start the drive inland in the direction of the Komovi mountains. The drive to the base of the Komovi mountains, Štavna, takes 2:30 hours.

Štavna is a high pasture dotted with katuns (herdsmen settlements) on the slope of Kom Vasojevićki. As you make your way out of the capital, you’ll start to see fruit stands on the side of the road as well as the occasional restaurant.

Off to the right, there’s a deep canyon that merits a few photos! As you drive further inland, you’ll pass through a series of tunnels that escorts you deeper into the mountains. All the roads were in good condition – just the occasional pothole.

Things to Do in Komovi

You’ll likely arrive in Štavna in the afternoon. After settling into your chalet at Chalets Etno selo Štavna, you can explore the katun (temporary herdsmen settlement), that’s located very close to your accommodation.

We loved the remoteness, ruggedness, and authenticity of this area. There’s very little tourism in Komovi, so you’ll have a peaceful introduction to Montenegro if you start your trip here. 

Stay in Chalets Etno selo Štavna, Krajišta

Budget | Chalets Etno selo Štavna (Ethno Village Štavna) is comprised of 10 chalets. Each chalet can sleep 5 to 6 people. There’s an on-site restaurant that makes delicious, homemade Montenegrin cuisine. Chalets Etno selo Štavna is also located directly at the starting point for all hikes in the Komovi mountain range. So, it’s an ideal place to park, sleep, eat & drink before and after hiking. We recommend making a reservation in advance.

Budget | Another option in Komovi is Komovi – Kobil Do Guesthouse – Bungalows. It’s a 15 minutes drive to Chalets Etno selo Štavna.

Look for accommodation in Komovi.

Day two begins with a delicious and traditional Montenegrin breakfast of feta cheese, sliced tomatoes and cucumbers and priganica sa sirom (fritters with cheese) at Chalets Etno selo Štavna. After breakfast, we recommend hiking in the Komovi mountains.

Hike to Kom Vasojevićki Summit

Kom Vasojevićki, the handsome peak reaching an elevation of 2461 m, is a great choice for a half-day hike. This is a 4 – 4.5 hours return hike, with a total ascent gain of 710 meters.

Unfortunately, we weren’t able to hike to the summit, because of the weather. In terms of finding the trail, walk towards the mountain that dominates the landscape. Veer uphill and to the right of the katun and you’ll soon see yellow trail signs.

For other hiking ideas in the Komovi mountains, we recommend the book Mountains of Montenegro. To learn more about the Komovi mountain range, read Summitpost’s Komovi Post.

Drive to Grebaje Valley

After a rewarding hike, it’s time to start the drive to Prokletije National Park – Montenegro’s best-kept secret.

We recommend basing yourself in Grebaje Valley (also spelled Grbaje Valley), which is a 15-20 minute drive from the town Gusinje. This scenic and narrow valley has a few accommodation options and restaurants.

Note: There’s a 1 EUR national park fee per day per person. You’ll pay this upon entering Grebaje Valley.

Stay in Grebaje Valley, Prokletije National Park

Budget | We stayed at Bungalows Katun Maja Karanfil. This accommodation has the best views of Dolina Grebaje, especially during sunset. From Maja Karanfil, it’s a 1-5 minute walk to any of the hiking trailheads. Maja Karanfil is also a restaurant. Each bungalow sleeps, 4 people.

Budget | Another (budget) option in Grebaje Valley is Bungalows Prokletije. Their wooden cabins are a bit larger than the ones in Katun Karanfil. Guests are really pleased with the hospitality and food here.

Look for accommodation in Grebaje Valley.

You have a full day to explore the Accursed Mountains of Prokletije National Park. We recommend prioritizing the hike to Volušnica. 

This easy-moderate hike rewards you with the most awe-inducing views of the Karanfili peaks and the Albanian Alps.

Hike to Volušnica and Talijanka

Hike to Volušnica and Talijanka (Popadija). In total, the hike takes 6 hours.

From the valley floor, it takes 2 hours to reach Volušnica. The hike continues along a ridge trail to the peak Talijanka (Popadija). When you reach the Talijanka summit, you’ll be standing directly on the Montenegrin-Albanian border. The view is mind-blowing.

Important Tip: hike here mid to late afternoon. If you hike in the morning, the sun will blind your mountain views.

To learn more about visiting this beautiful area, read our guide to Prokletije National Park.

Stay in Grebaje Valley

Budget | Bungalows Katun Maja Karanfil, or Bungalows Prokletije

Look for accommodation in Grebaje Valley.

Hike in Prokletije National Park

Before continuing your road trip deeper into Prokletije National Park, we recommend doing another day hike in the Grebaje Valley. We hiked the loop trail to the glacial cirque Krošnja and the arch Kissing Cats, which took almost 7 hours.

The initial ascent is a bit tedious and not very exciting, but as soon as you start traversing the Karanfili slopes, you’ll vibrate with happiness.

We’d classify this trail as difficult. You can learn more about this hike and other options in this Prokletije National Park hiking guide.

Trails & Directions

It’s important to research Prokletije hiking trails before arriving in Grebaje Valley. From our experience, wifi isn’t reliable. In addition, the staff has limited knowledge of mountain trails.

Wikiloc was a huge help for us in researching trails pre-trip as well as following-trails during the hikes. Note: you can download offline maps and follow specific trails, but there’s a small subscription fee.

Stay in Bajrovica Katun or Grebaje Valley

After hiking to Kissing Cats, we drove to a farm stay in Bajrovica Katun, which is situated along the Peaks of the Balkans trekking route.

The drive to this Katun was long (1 hour 45 minutes) and along a very poorly maintained road. Regular (low) cars will have a hard time making the journey.

Budget | We loved staying at Samel’s Cottage Prokletije and experiencing rural life in Montenegro. We were treated to delicious homemade and organic meals and slept in a cozy A-frame hut.

Midrange | Triangle Woodhouse

Look for accommodation in Bajrovica Katun.

However, given the length of the drive, we recommend either spending an additional night at the farm stay or staying one more night in Grebaje Valley.

Budget | Bungalows Katun Maja Karanfil, or Bungalows Prokletije

Look for accommodation in Grebaje Valley.

After breakfast in the farm’s gazebo, you can hike to the nearby lake Hrdisko Jezero. Rimmed by trees, this delightful walking destination is a nice-to-do, not a must-do.

Hike to Hrdisko Jezero

• It takes 1 hour to reach the lake via a dense forest path.
• The easy-to-follow trail follows the Peaks of the Balkans route.

Drive to Žabljak

The drive to Žabljak, the gateway to Durmitor National Park, traverses the rural heart of Montenegro. As you near Žabljak, the drive becomes increasingly more beautiful. You’ll drive along Tara Canyon and below rugged mountains.

Stay in Žabljak

Žabljak is the best base for exploring Durmitor National Park. We recommend staying in the town center so that you are walking distance to various restaurants and the main park entrance. Here are a few options:

Budget | Apartments Sipcic

Midrange | Vuk Popovic is a very clean and spacious apartment fully furnished and stocked with necessary amenities. The apartment can sleep up to 4, or 5 people.

Top Choice – Midrange-Luxury | We recommend staying in Casa di Pino Eco Lodge Apartments, a modern, tastefully-furnished accommodation with 8 rooms and apartments. The room rate includes a breakfast buffet and use of the Finnish sauna. 

Luxury | Hotel Soa is the best accommodation if you want a spacious modern room, an excellent breakfast and spa facilities. The hotel is perfectly situated between the city center and the Crno Jezero (Black Lake).

Look for accommodation in Žabljak.

Welcome to Montenegro’s crown jewel: Durmitor National Park. This is a fantastic hiking destination – possibly the best hiking area in the entire Balkans. We wrote an in-depth guide (with map) to hiking in Durmitor National Park. Check it out!

Hike in Durmitor National Park

Crno Jezero (Black Lake). This glacial lake is located only 10 minutes from the park entrance and walking distance from Žabljak. To reach the lake, you’ll walk along a flat, paved road. This lake marks the trailhead for many park trails. 

Planinica. This is a high alpine plateau that gives you arguably the best view in the entire park. It takes 4.5 hours to reach Planinica, so this is a long day hike. The hike starts at Crno Jezero (Black Lake). 

Bobotov Kuv. This is the highest peak in Durmitor National Park. This is an intermediate hike, but the last 10 minutes require using assisted ropes (which are a little too loose for comfort). We highly suggest bringing hiking poles. The trailhead is Sedlo. You can hike to Bobotov Kuv from Crno Jezero, but that’s not recommended. 

Visiting Durmitor National Park

There’s a 3 EUR entrance fee to the park per day. If you intend to hike 3 days, you can purchase a discounted ticket of 6 EUR (as of 2018).

Trails are very well maintained and easy to follow. There’s ubiquitous easy-to-follow signage marking turns and directions.

The best time to hike in Durmitor is between late June and late September. We hiked in early September and we had outstanding weather.

Stay in Žabljak

Budget | Apartments Sipcic

Midrange | Vuk Popovic

Top Choice – Midrange-Luxury | Casa di Pino Eco Lodge Apartments,

Luxury | Hotel Soa

Look for accommodation in Žabljak.

Day 8 of your Montenegro road trip is a thrilling adventure filled with epic roads, delicious food, and heart-expanding views.

Drive the Sedlo Route: P14 Žabljak – Trsa – Plužine

Prepare yourself for one of the most beautiful drives in all Montenegro. You’ll begin the day by driving the Sedlo Pass Route from Žabljak to Piva Lake.

The route winds through the heart of Durmitor National Park, passing a treeless paradise where the mountains take center stage. At the beginning of the route, you can stop for coffee in the cozy cabin Konoba Lomni Do.

There are a number of trailheads located along the P14 route. If you get an early start, you could potentially hike to Mount Prutaš or even Skrka Lakes Valley from Todorov Do.

Mount Prutaš looks like a 20-layered deli-sandwich flipped on its side. It’s a beautiful site from the road, but we’re sorry we didn’t get a chance to summit it.

If you decide to squeeze in one more hike, it would be better to overnight around Plužine and save the drive to Kotor for the next day.

Eat Lunch in Plužine

The route ends at Piva Lake. Cross the lake and have lunch in the town Plužine. We recommend eating at Restoran Sočica, a lovely restaurant with ample outdoor seating. From Plužine, the drive continues to the underwhelming lake Slansko.

Visit Njeguši

We decided to drive around lake Slansko and take P15, followed by P23, to the town Njeguši, before descending into Kotor. This segment of the drive is long and windy, so if you’re already feeling tired, you might want to navigate to Kotor via P11.

The pros of taking the long windy route to Njeguši was the opportunity to eat the regionally famous – which really should be globally famous – Njeguški pršut (smoked ham) and Njeguški sir (smoked cheese). After a very enjoyable break here, we continued the drive to Kotor.

If you have time, you can hike to Pestingrad Peak, before driving down to Kotor.

Drive the Serpentine Road to Kotor

The drive to Kotor from Njeguši is a steep hairpin road known as the Serpentine Kotor Road. We arrived at the top of the road at golden hour, that time of day when the landscapes soften to pastel tones and the sun makes its final act.

There are many lookout points and opportunities to stop to enjoy the view along the way. 

Stay in Kotor Bay

Read our guide to Where to Stay in Kotor to find out the best places to stay in Kotor Bay: top areas and accommodations. 

Old Town of Kotor – Inside City Walls

The Old Town of Kotor is surrounded by fortifications built during the Venetian period.

There’s something so romantic about staying within the walled city, a tangle of narrow streets lined with historic buildings, which house humming restaurants and bars.

The entire UNESCO-protected Old Town is a pedestrian zone, so naturally, accommodations do not offer on-site parking. Ask your accommodation for clear parking instructions in advance of your stay.

Keep in mind that you’ll have to carry your luggage to your accommodation, as accommodations rarely offer a bellhop service.

If you’re sensitive to noise and loud music, don’t stay in the Old Town on Friday, or Saturday nights. There’s a midnight curfew on music, but it’s not strictly enforced.

Budget | Old Town Youth Hostel is a social hostel for the young party types with raving reviews.

Apartment | Palazzo Sindik is a lovely one-bedroom apartment in the old town of Kotor.

Apartment | Katareo Apartments offers newly renovated and spotless apartments with kitchenettes. Try to book the apartment with the terrace, if it’s available.

Luxury | Hotel Hippocampus is a stylish boutique hotel set in a 17th century building with a roof terrace and restaurant. A slow, mouthwatering breakfast is served on the rooftop, featuring local cold cuts and cheeses, freshly baked Montenegrin pastries, eggs-to-order, coffee, and orange juice. All rooms are air-conditioned.

Luxury | Boutique Hotel Astoria is a luxury hotel, housed in the UNESCO-protected 13th-century Buca Palace. The hotel’s restaurant spills outside onto the square. Rooms are spacious and feature funky, love-it-or-hate-it decor.

Luxury | Hotel Vardar is a 4-star hotel with classic rooms situated on the main square in the Old Town of Kotor, a stone’s throw from the Sea Gate. Guests have access to a gym, sauna, and steam bath. 

Look for accommodation in Kotor.

Kotor – Outside City Walls

The benefit of staying outside the city walls is on-site parking.

Budget | Apartments Ana is located just steps away from the River Gate (North Gate) of the Old Town at the Kotor Ladder trailhead. This is a great value apartment with private parking.

Budget | Apartments Qualitas offers snug apartments at the marina, very close to the South Gate. Contact host in advance about parking. 

Dobrota

Dobrota is the sprawling settlement to the north of Kotor, which stretches for several kilometers from the Old Town to Ljuta.

It’s hard to know where Kotor ends and Dobrota begins, as one bleeds into the other.

Many accommodations in Dobrota are within walking distance of Kotor’s Old Town. For example: Apartman Castello (midrange apartments) and Solaris Lux Apartments (modern apartments).

However, many others are 3-4 kms away (10 minute drive), including some of the finest seafront hotels in Kotor Bay.

Far from the bustling port and city, these accommodations provide private sea access, minimal  traffic, and a more peaceful environment.

Stand-out seafront accommodations: Hotel Forza Terra (5-star boutique hotel) and Hotel Forza Mare (boutique hotel), Villa Maestral (apartments), Corso Levante Luxury Suites (luxury suites), and Three Dots (private villa). 

Muo

Muo is the seaside settlement to the northwest of Kotor’s Old Town, along the base of Vrmac. From Muo, it’s about a 15-25 minute walk to the Old Town.

Budget | Nikola Lux apartments are two modern and clean apartments with sea-view balconies and private parking. The price is unbeatable. 2 nights minimum stay.

After a week in the mountains, it’s time to relax by the sea. Today, explore the old town of Kotor, walk along the bay and gorge yourself with seafood.

Surrounded by mountains, the Bay of Kotor is undeniably good looking. You’ll be enchanted from the very moment you arrive. 

Things to Do in Kotor

We recommend eating BBQ at the BBQ Tanjga eatery, savoring a mouthwatering breakfast on the rooftop terrace of Boutique Hotel Hippocampus, dining at the seaside Restaurant Galion, drinking craft beer at the Nitrox Pub, and walking the Dobota Promenade to Platanus café (their “Montenegro Platter” is very generous). 

Hike the Ladder of Kotor. The Ladder of Kotor is a hiking trail that connects Kotor with Krstac Pass. It was built in the 19th century by the Austrians, in order to connect Kotor with Njeguši and Cetinje, Montenegro’s former royal capital. The Kotor Ladder is defined by 70 switchbacks and starts on Tabačina road, just outside the UNESCO-protected Old Town of Kotor, near the River Gate (aka North Gate). There is no entrance fee.

Hike to the Kotor Fortress. The Kotor Fortress hike links the Old Town of Kotor with the hilltop Kotor Fortress (aka San Giovanni Fortress, St. John’s Fortress), passing the Church of Our Lady of Remedy along the way. There is 8 EUR entrance fee to hike the 1350 stone steps to the hilltop fortress. 

Watch the Sunset from Mount Vrmac. Vrmac is the long, limestone mountain that divides Kotor Bay (aka Boka Bay) into a “inner bay” and an “outer bay”. It’s the backbone of the peninsula that rises between Tivat and Kotor. The Vrmac Ridge Trail connects Fort Vrmac with Sveti Ilija (765 m), the highest peak along the ridge. Read our Vrmac trail guide for tips on where to watch the sunset. 

Learn More: Best Things to Do in Kotor

Stay a Second Night in Kotor

Look for accommodation in Kotor.

It’s difficult to say goodbye to charming Kotor. Luckily, the drive around Kotor Bay is captivating, making the farewell less bitter. As you drive along the bay (in the direction of Lepetane), you’ll pass beautiful waterfront estates, countless fishing boats, and flowering trees.

The white stone buildings with wooden shutters and terra cotta roofs complement the clear blue waters of the bay. It seems like every property is a vacation rental or apartment complex.

The water is animated with swimmers, sunbathers, and water polo players. The whole area evokes the ultimate seaside holiday feeling. And, it’s oh so hard to leave.

Note | You can skip Lustica Peninsula and spend another day in Kotor.

Things to Do in Luštica Peninsula

Today’s destination is Luštica, the peninsula which has the Adriatic Sea on one side and Kotor Bay on the other. The highlight of our coastal drive was the village, Rose.

And like a rose, the idyllic seaside town is just lovely. We enjoyed lunch at the restaurant, Adriatic Rose. Service was slow, but the food was delicious.

• Explore the town of Lepetane (if you can find a parking spot)
• Take a dip in the shallow calm waters of Plavi Horizonti Beach, or Žanjice Beach
• Visit the village Rose and eat lunch at Adriatic

Stay in Luštica Peninsula

Budget | Apartments Bellavista

Midrange | Apartments Odiva

Look for accommodation in Luštica.

The Budva Riviera is a strip of Adriatic coast around the town Budva. Here you’ll find Montenegro’s prettiest coves, most iconic architecture, and dreamy islands. You’ll also find tasteless resorts and overcrowded beaches. 

The Old Walled Town of Budva and Mogren Beaches

Budva has a reputation for being a tourist hot spot and a magnet for partiers. We explored Budva in the mid-morning and had a really lovely time.

After walking through the charming and congested streets of the old town, we walked along the coast to Mogren beaches (there are two).

These beaches reminded us of the Algarve. Flanked by towering orange-colored cliffs, the Mogren coves offer a wonderful place to indulge in a full day at the beach.

We spent at least two hours here. The beach is family-friendly. The sand is coarse, but not painful – the perfect size that feels like a foot massage. From the beach, you’ll have a great view of the triangular shaped Sveti Nikola Island.

Parking Tip: We found a free parking area on the main highway. From the parking spot, it took about 15 minutes to walk to the old town.

Lunch at Paštrovica Dvori

After Morgren Beach, we made our way to the restaurant Paštrovica Dvori, located high above Sveti Stefan. The owner is very welcoming. Products on the menu are either fresh or homemade (olive oil, cheese, smoked ham, olives).

Everything we ate was delicious. And, the cherry on top is the view of the fortified island Sveti Stefan. After lunch, continue driving up the road to the stone chapel called Sveti Sava Church. From here, you’ll have sweeping views of the Budva Riviera. 

Visit more Budva Riviera Beaches

• Pržno Beach. Family-friendly cove with beautiful scenery.
• Rijeka Reževići Beach. A tiny hidden gem. There’s a small café at the beach that serves yummy Mediterranean food.
• Lučica Plaža. Nice beach, but crowded. 
• Plaza Buljarica. Long pebbly beach. The water is clear, but it’s less kind to the feet. It is a perfect place for a sunset dip, as the beach was nearly deserted when we arrived.

Stay in the Budva Riviera

We recommend staying anywhere between the towns of Budva and Petrovac.

Budget | We stayed in Apartments Viktorija, a clean, comfortable and affordable apartment in Petrovac, near Plaza Buljarica. It looks like they’re now accepting bookings with a 3-night minimum stay.

Midrange | Luxury Apartment Stefan is a lovely apartment with a terrace overlooking Pržno Beach, one of our favorite beaches in Montenegro.

Luxury | Hotel Riva is a stylish hotel with memorable views of the sea and the old town of Petrovac.

Look for accommodation in the Budva Riviera.

Your Montenegro itinerary continues to Ulcinj, a town on the Albanian border. Before you continue the drive, consider visiting a few more beaches.

Improve our itinerary: Instead of rushing down to Ulcinj today, build in an extra full day to enjoy the Budva Riviera. Our route works, but it would have been more relaxing if we spent a second night here, before continuing the journey south.

Detour to Stari Bar

On your way to Ulcinj, you can take a detour to the old town of Stari Bar. The old fortified town is more of a ruin, but it’s enlivened by the many restaurants and shops lining the walls.

It’s difficult to understand the historical significance of the town without proper context. There were a few info boards, but a tour would have been helpful.

Explore Ulcinj

Ulcinj is a vibrant seaside town. Though our time in Ulcinj was quite short, we were really happy we included it in our Montenegro travel itinerary. Your visit should begin with the Old Town of Ulcinj.

Though not as well-preserved as other towns in Montenegro, it’s still captivating. Definitely check out the Sunset Beach Bar, which is accessible from the Old Town, but located outside the walls on the edge of the sea.

For dinner, head to Fisherman Hari for delicious freshly-caught fish. This was hands down the best fish we ate during our trip.

Ulcinj is also a beach destination. If you walk south along the coast, you’ll see many seaside restaurants, beach clubs, and coves.

Women should head to Ladies’ Beach, a woman’s only beach that is completely fenced off and guarded so women can bathe in complete peace and comfort. If you’re into adrenalin sports, Velika Plaža is a popular beach for kite surfing.

Stay in Ulcinj

Budget | Guesthouse Maritimo is a comfortable accommodation with sea views, a balcony, and a perfect location.

Midrange | Apartments Secret Garden is a thoughtfully-designed apartment-style accommodation in the center of Ulcinj. Bonus: an outdoor swimming pool.

Luxury | Hotel Pirate Old Town is located within the walls of the old town. Facing the Adriatic Sea, Hotel Pirate boasts the best views in town.

Look for accommodation in Ulcinj.

Your two weeks in Montenegro are nearly over, but we have a delightful surprise for you. After enjoying your morning in Ulcinj, drive inland to Lake Skadar.

Things to Do around Lake Skadar

Lake Skadar is a large freshwater lake bordering Albania and Montenegro. You can explore the lake by joining a boat tour, renting a kayak, or simply by the road.

This region is also famous for wine. So, if you have time, we recommend tasting your way through Virpazar and the surrounding region.

Stay near Lake Skadar

Budget | Vržina Farm House Skadar Lake

Midrange | Skadar lake Apartments Pajovic – This spacious and light-filled apartment was our very favorite accommodation in Montenegro. Surrounded by pomegranate trees and rolling hills, it’s easy to lose track of time here.

We arrived in the middle of the day and loved it so much that we just relaxed, played with puppies (there were 4), and enjoyed the solitude of our surroundings.

Our hosts made us a yummy feast for dinner accompanied by a bottle of their homemade white wine. We’re still dreaming of the wine, and plotting our return to this incredible hidden gem near Lake Skadar. Guests who have more energy can go on a boat ride (organized by the host).

Look for accommodation near Lake Skadar. 

Pavlova Strana Viewpoint

Your Montenegro road trip concludes with one final scenic drive and a visit to Horseshoe Bend (Pavlova Strana Viewpoint). To reach the viewpoint, drive back to Virpazar and continue on P16.

The best views are seen from the windy road that branches off to the left in the direction of M2.3 (highway). You can take that road to M2.3 and head directly to Podgorica. The whole drive takes 2 hours.

Where to Next?

Montenegro borders Albania. If you’re interested in traveling south, read our Albania Travel Guide. After dropping off our car in Podgorica, we took a bus to Shkodra (Albania) and embarked on this Albanian trip.

If your journey is taking you north, check out our Slovenia Travel Guide for useful tips and top things to do.