The village of La Val (Wengen in German, La Valle in Italian) is considered the most traditional and least tourist-affected settlement in Alta Badia. Its farming hamlets (viles) lie high above Val Badia and the Gadera River (Gran Ega), set apart from the main ski resort area, which has helped preserve the village’s authentic Ladin character.
Located on the edge of Fannes-Senes-Braies Nature Park, hikers are spoiled for choice when it comes to lesser-known hiking trails. From the scattered, tucked-away car parks around La Val, all of which feel like well-kept local secrets, trails climb toward Pares Peak and the Rit Meadows, the Fanes Plateau, La Crusc Pilgrimage Church and the Armentara Meadows.
The absence of a ski industry means no massive hotels and no throngs of visitors. Instead, La Val offers a handful of welcoming and affordable small hotels and self-catering stays on working farms.
- Getting Around: Given how spread out La Val is and where the trailheads are located, having your own rental car is helpful, especially if you plan to also visit other destinations in Val Badia. If you’re traveling without a car, staying in Badia, La Villa, Corvara, or San Cassiano is a better alternative.
- Best Hotels: Hotel Plan Murin (3-star adults-only), Hotel Pider (3-star), Hotel Alpenrose Dolomites (3-star with pool), and La Palsa (3-star)
- Apartments: Lüch de Crusteles, Apartments Miribunghof, and Ciasa Plandros Apartments.
- Day Trips: San Vigilio, Lungiarü, and Sass de Putia Circuit Hike starting at Passo delle Erbe
Where to Stay in La Val
What immediately stands out about La Val is its web of scattered farming hamlets (Viles) and the notable elevation difference, from the lowest, Pederoa (1,152 m), to the highest, Biei (1,622 m).
After taking the exit to La Val, the winding road seems to stretch on endlessly between green pastures, connecting the historic rural settlements.
La Val’s village center, Plan Morin (1,353 m), sits roughly halfway between the lowest and highest hamlets, offering a practical midpoint in this slanted dispersed village. Here you’ll find the new village church, town hall, tourist office, and a collection of lovely accommodations, including the exceptional 3-star Hotel Plan Murin (ages 15+), which offers superb dining (book half board), a small spa, and underground garage parking.
Other village center options include Hotel Pider, Hotel Alpenrose Dolomites, and La Palsa.
In the various hamlets of La Val, you’ll find farm stay self-catering accommodations including Lüch de Crusteles, Apartments Miribunghof, and Ciasa Plandros Apartments.
Please note that many of these accommodations have a minimum stay requirement of 3-4 nights.
Church of Santa Barbara
The hilltop Church of Santa Barbara was built in the 15th century in honor of St. Barbara, the patron saint of miners. It’s not entirely clear who built the church. According to local legend, this late Gothic chapel was built by the local silver miners who worked in the mines of Tolpëi or Fursil. However, others claim that it was built by the miners of Valparola valley.
From the village center of La Val, you can walk to St. Barbara Chapel in 30 minutes by following the 1-km Path of Meditation (Memento Vivereto). Alternatively, you can drive to the hamlet of Tolpëi. Park here and walk through the hamlet to the church, passing Ostaria Vedla along the way.
This church makes for an exceptionally scenic destination, thanks to its striking mountain backdrop. From Tolpëi, the view sets Sass de Putia behind the church, the isolated massif appearing like a frozen wave. From the meditation trail, the peaks of Sas dles Nü (Neuner Spitze, Sasso delle Nove) and Sas dles Diesc (Zehner Spitze, Cima Dieci) compose a flawless, postcard-worthy backdrop.
Les Viles of La Val
A vile is a cluster of farmhouses and barns with communal facilities like an oven, granary, fountains, watering troughs, and fodder stores. This settlement style and communal way of life are distinctive features of the high-elevation settlements of Val Badia and the surrounding Ladin valleys.
It’s easy to feel as though time has stood still here. Afterall, La Val is ancient. Val Badia was settled by the ancient Rhaetians (indigenous Alpine people), followed by the ancient Romans.
Over the centuries of Roman domination, starting in 15 BC, the Rhaetians became predominantly Latin-speaking, adopting the language of Roman soldiers, officials and traders. It’s commonly believed that today’s Rhaeto-Romance languages (Ladin, Friulian, and Romansh) preserve echoes of the Latin spoken by the ancient Rhaetians.
By the Middle Ages, La Val comprised 48 viles, according to the Castel Badia real estate registry of 1296. The hamlets we see today are the living successors of this centuries-old settlement pattern.
I’ve found that the most enjoyable way to visit a vile without feeling like an intruder is dining in a Hofschänke like Ciablun Hofschänke (reservation required).
Where to Eat in La Val
Ostaria Vedla
Set in the hamlet of Tolpëi, a brief walk from Santa Barbara Church, Ostaria Vedla is a warm and inviting tavern specializing in hearty Ladin Alpine dishes. Its spaces include an outdoor terrace, a casual bar at the entrance, and a charming timber-paneled stube with only a few tables. Come for a coffee and the daily cake, a homemade ice cream, or a satisfying sit-down meal.
I ordered the sausage gnocchi: rich, fatty, but absolutely delicious. Kati chose the tagliata, which came very rare. Next time, we’d order it medium, or God forbid medium-well.
Location | Address: Dlijia Vedla 3, La Val | Google Maps
Reservations | I made a reservation via Instagram, though calling would be more efficient.
Ciablun Hofschänke
Ciablun is a farm with a Hofschänke (tavern), located in the hamlet of the same name just up the road from Tolpëi. Guests can purchase specialties made on-site, including speck, salami, fresh meats, eggs, jams, honey, and homemade syrups.
The restaurant serves classic Ladin–South Tyrolean dishes, expertly prepared. We had the five-course lunch menu, which was delicious, but a two-hour affair. It’s a wonderful way to pass the time on a rainy day, or a rest day. Otherwise, you may prefer to order à la carte.
Location | Ciablun 1, La Val | Google Maps
Reservations | Reservations are required. We emailed info@ciablun.it
La Val Hiking Trails
Spëscia – La Crusc Pilgrimage Church – Armentara Circuit Trail
This circuit trail links the hamlet of Spëscia with the La Crusc Pilgrimage Church and Armentara Plateau. I hiked the path off-season on November 7th, which is why the trail was snow-covered. I found it to be an absolutely delightful excursion, following quiet forest paths and the least-traveled ascent route to La Crusc.
The trail traces the Tru di pra at the foot of Sas dla Crusc all the way to the Pilgrimage Church and Sas dla Crusc rifugio and then gently descends to the Armentara Meadows. The final leg back to Spëscia follows a forest road.
Trail Directions
- Park at the Spëscia Car Park: Google Maps
- Follow Trail 13A in the direction of Ju de Sant Antone (Antoniusjoch, Passo S. Antonio), the saddle that connects La Val with the Fanes Alp.
- At the 13A/15B trail junction, turn right on Trail 15B. Follow this trail all the way to the La Crusc Sanctuary.
- Descend to the Armentara Plateau along trail 15A.
- At the 15A/18A trail junction, turn right to Spëscia
- At the end of the hike, a shortcut branches left from the forest road and drops down into Spëscia. Because of the snow, I stayed on the wider 15A forest road instead, following it to the familiar 13A and back to the car park.
This 12 km trail takes 4:10 hours without breaks (it took me 4:45 hours). The total elevation gain/loss is 615 meters.
Related | Armentara Meadows – Badia Hike
Piz de Pares Peak
Standing at 2394 meters, Piz de Pares (Paresberg in German) proudly rises up between Tamersc Valley in San Vigilio and La Val in Alta Badia. From the Ciurnadù – Coz Car Park (Google Maps) in La Val, this relatively easy-to-reach summit initially follows a wide gravel track for much of the ascent. The final stretch to the peak is a proper hiking trail.
After enjoying the fine summit views of the Sennes and Braies Mountains, retrace your steps back to the trail 13/16 junction and follow trail 13 to the Rit Meadows, where you can eat lunch at Ütia Da Rit. The circuit continues to the summit of Crusc de Rit (short detour) and Lech de Rit, before descending back to Ciurnadù.
More hikes in Alta Badia:
More Alta Badia Travel Guides
Where to Stay in Alta Badia:
Summer in Alta Badia:
Autumn in Alta Badia:
Dolomites:
- Places to Visit in the Dolomites
- Things to Do in the Dolomites
- How to Get to the Dolomites
- Day Hikes in the Dolomites
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