And as far as long distance hiking goes, inn-to-inn walking is by far the most comfortable way to trek. It’s also one of the most authentic and rewarding ways to experience Europe, both across the British Isles and the Continent.
Personally, we gravitate to coastal inn-to-inn trails like the The Lighthouse Way and the South West Coast Path, because I love the sensation of hiking along the ocean for multiple days. However, there are also many inland inn-to-inn countryside trails that connect villages and remote inns like the Malerweg in Germany.
While many people group together “inn-to-inn walking” and “hut-to-hut hiking,” I think that’s misleading because the two offer fundamentally different experiences.
Unlike a hut to hut hike, where you stay in a rustic mountain refuge, only accessible by foot, often in dormitory-style sleeping arrangements, an “inn” usually implies a tavern, pub, guesthouse, B&B, or hotel with private bedrooms with ensuite bathrooms.
Also, it can be very difficult to modify a hut-to-hut hike, given the remoteness of the trail. When hiking inn-to-inn, there’s almost always an option to shorten, or cut out a stage entirely with a bus or taxi, if the weather is poor, or you simply need to rest.
- Luggage Transfer: Along well-established routes, luggage transfer is usually an option.
- Booking: Some hikes can easily be booked independently, while others are best booked with a self-guided hiking company.
- Meals: In terms of meals, you’ll eat in restaurants, cafés, beachside bars, and taverns along the trail. On particularly remote stages, there’s usually an option to ask for a packed lunch from your accommodation in advance.
Fisherman’s Trail in Portugal
Following historic pathways, historically used by fishermen to access the best fishing spots, the Fisherman’s Trail hugs the rugged Vicentine Coast of Alentejo and later Algarve. Each stage ends in a coastal village, where there’s a wide selection of budget-friendly B&Bs and guesthouses. We booked all our accommodation on booking.com.
The Original Fisherman’s Trail is a 4-day trek from Porto Covo to Odeceixe. Its success later prompted the Rota Vicentina Association to extend the route to 13 stages. We hiked the original four-day version before the extension and still think it’s the perfect adventure for hikers with limited time, or for those looking to integrate an inn-to-inn hike into a longer car-free Portugal itinerary.
- Day 0: Arrive in Porto Covo. Stay in Calmaria Guest House
- Day 1: Porto Covo to Villa Eira in Vila Nova de Milfontes
- Day 2: Vila Nova de Milfontes to Casa Azul or Almograve Beach Hostel in Almograve
- Day 3: Almograve to AZUL or Alojamento White Rose Boutique in Zambujeira do Mar
- Day 4: Zambujeira do Mar to AL-Odeceixe Verde or Casas Do Moinho in in Odeceixe.
It’s really important to hike this trail in early spring or autumn, when temperatures are cooler.
South West Coast Path in England
The South West Coast Path wraps around England’s southwest peninsula from Minehead in Somerset to Poole Harbour in Dorset, taking in the entire Cornish Coast as well. Most walkers complete the trail in sections, as tackling its full 1,014 km (630 miles) in a single 2-month trip isn’t feasible for most.
I hiked the stretch from Westward Ho! to St. Ives:
- Day 1: Westward Ho! to Red Lion Inn in Clovelly
- Day 2: Clovelly to Hartland Quay Hotel at Harland Quay
- Day 3: Harland Quay to The Beach in Bude
- Day 4: Bude to Crackington Haven
- Day 5: Crackington Haven to Tintagel Arms B&B in Tintagel
- Day 6: Tintagel to Slipway B&B in Port Isaac
- Day 7: Port Isaac to Seashells Apartment in Padstow.
- [Rest Day in Padstow]
- Day 8: Padstow to MacDonald’s Farm in Porthcothan
- Day 9: Porthcothan to OYO Minerva Guesthouse in Newquay
- Day 10: Newquay to Perranporth
- Day 11: Perraporth to Portreath Arms in Portreath
- Day 12: Portreat to Rivendell Guest House in St. Ives
- Day 13: St. Ives
- Day 14: Departure Day
With less time, I would hike Clovelly to Padstow. You don’t want to miss Hartland Quay.
The SWCP clings to the coast, passing through charming fishing villages, where hikers can choose between an assortment of accommodation–B&Bs, hotels, pubs, and taverns–all of which need to be booked months in advance.
I love everything about this trail: the friendly vibe, the cream tea and pasty stops, the staggering coastline, and the ease, as it’s very easy to navigate.
Lighthouse Way in Spain
For 200 kilometers, The Lighthouse Way, or Camiño dos Faros, embraces Galicia’s Coast of Death with a determination that makes even the most seasoned coastal hiker swoon. In other words, this trail rarely strays from the coast.
Of all the inn-to-inn walks we’ve hiked, this is by far the most exciting and also the most challenging due to the length of stages, the terrain, and even the navigation at times.
From Malpica to Finisterre, the 8-stage trail connects a series of lighthouses and villages. Hikers overnight in guesthouses, hotels, or apartments. Here’s where we stayed along the Lighthouse Way.
We booked our trek independently, but there are tremendous benefits to booking this route with self-guided tour operator On Foot Holidays, which I’ve summarized in Why Book a Camino dos Faros Self-Guided Hike. If you want to book a self-guided trek, use our coupon code M&H20 for a £20 voucher on your first trip.
I recommend hiking the Lighthouse Way in May, when the cliffs are covered in blooming gorse, or September.
GR 34: The Customs Officers’ Path in France
Custom Officer’s Path (Sentier des Douaniers in French) is a long-distance hiking trail that hugs the Breton coastline for 2000 kilometers. It’s named after the customs officers who patrolled the coastline in order to combat smuggling, rescue shipwreck victims, and prevent locals from looting stranded ships in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Because most of us will not be setting out to hike 2000 km, the first task is to figure out which section to tackle. I would take a look at the stretch between Lancieux and Erquy, or between Tréguier and Morlaix (which includes the Pink Granite Coast), the Crozon Peninsula stages, or the GR340 extension around Belle-île-en-Mer, the largest island in Brittany.
During our Brittany road trip, we sampled sections of the GR34 on various day hikes. We still want to go back to walk a chunk of the GR34. If you have any favorite stretches, please let us know.
The weather in Brittany is fickle during shoulder seasons. Nonetheless, I would aim for May, early June, or September. High summer brings Parisians and occasionally high temperatures.
Europe Hiking Guides
Hut to Hut Hiking:
- Hut to Hut Hiking with Kids
- Hut to Hut Hiking in Austria
- Hut to Hut Hiking in Slovenia
- Hut to Hut Hiking in the Dolomites
Multi-Day Trekking:
Coastal Hiking:
Foodie Hiking:
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