The South West Coast Path is a 1,014 km (630 miles) long-distance trail in England, which runs from Minehead in Somerset, along the coasts of Devon and Cornwall, to Poole Harbour in Dorset.
While some endeavor to hike the entire South West Coast Path in one go (2 months), most people I met were simply walking their dogs, day hiking, or accessing a hidden cove for a beach day. Hiking a chunk of the path, let alone the whole thing, is a rarity.
Over the years, Kati and I have experienced the South West Coast Path as day hikers on a road trip, petsitters during a 1-month stay in Newquay, and as multi-day trekkers. There’s no right or wrong way to hike the South West Coast Path.
However, after recently hiking the South West Coast Path from Westward Ho! in North Devon to St. Ives in Cornwall (12 days + 2 rest days), I will say that the village-to-village trekking experience was unsurpassable. We stayed in B&BS and hotels, opting for the most comfortable experience.
Why Hike the South West Coast Path
The SWCP is the perfect trail for hikers who love cliffed coastlines, atmospheric pubs and historic inns, charming fishing villages, and friendly, dog-loving people.
It’s also an ideal walking holiday for comfort-seeking hikers, with seamless luggage transfers and private rooms awaiting at every stop along the trail.
For avid walkers, tackling a section of the South West Coast Path is an exceptionally stress-free way to travel as there’s no need to rent a car, drive on the left, navigate narrow lanes, or battle for parking in busy holiday spots.
- Type of trail: Village to Village with overnight stays in hotels, guesthouses, pubs, inns, and/or apartments.
- Camping: Camping is allowed in official campsites and caravan parks. According to the official SWCP website: “[wild] camping on the Coast Path without consent from the landowner is trespass.”
- Luggage Transfer: Yes, luggage transfer is available along the whole route.
- Trekking Guidebook: Cicerone South West Coast Path
- Best Season to Hike: May – September
- Navigation: This trail is incredibly well-kept and well-signed.
- Dogs: Dogs must be leashed on most stretches of the trail. Because the coastal trail passes through many fields where cattle and sheep roam freely, it’s essential that your dog is calm and under control around livestock. Also, there are stiles. It’s possible that you will need to carry your dog over some of the higher stiles.
South West Coast Path Map
My Experience Hiking the South West Coast Path
Kati and I set out to hike the South West Coast Path together from Westward Ho! to St. Ives. Unfortunately, due to a strained achilles, Kati was only able to hike two stages with me (Clovelly – Hartland Quay – Bude). I hiked the rest of the trail solo and Kati traveled by bus to the next village.
The rugged coast of North Devon and North Cornwall is undeniably spectacular, and I would even venture to say restorative and nervous-system-regulating.
In particular, I was captivated by the sections between Hartland Quay and Bude, Strade Valley and Crackington Haven, Tintagel and Trebarwith Strand, Port Isaac and the Rumps, Stepper Point and Trevose Head, and Porthcothan and Mawgan Porth.
Hiking along the breezy coast, I felt a deep sense of peace, often going long stretches without passing a single person. Since the trail is so well-signed, well-kept, and easy to follow, I also felt perfectly safe and at ease the whole time.
Scenery aside, one of the greatest joys of walking this path is staying in idyllic fishing villages, many of which date back to the middle ages. To end each day in a quaint pub, inn, or B&B, with the comfort of our own room, was a luxury I deeply savored.
With the exception of a few stages, trailside cafés, pasty shops, and tea houses made for delightful and well-timed stops throughout the hike. There’s something wonderfully indulgent about enjoying a cream tea along the South West Coast Path, a must for every food-driven hiker.
The main disadvantage of the SWCP is the hassle of getting to the trail, which often involves multiple legs of transit.
Another drawback is the steep cost of accommodation along the route. This is far from a budget-friendly village-to-village hike. That said, responsible camping remains an option.
Though I wouldn’t necessarily file this under disadvantages, it’s worth knowing that Cornwall is the UK’s most beloved destination for surfing and beach getaways. As you might expect, this part of England gets especially crowded during the school summer holidays (late July to late August). It’s best to avoid visiting at that time, when accommodation prices surge.
I have to admit, my motivation to walk dwindled when I had to cross beach after beach, crowded with holidaymakers sprawled beneath umbrellas like sunbathing seals. All I wanted to do was buy a scoop of creamy Cornish ice cream and join them.
South West Coast Path History
Like Brittany’s Customs Officers’ Path, the Coastal Path was originally created by coastguards in the late 19th century to spot and deter smuggling and shipwreck plundering. In order to effectively patrol the southwest peninsula, the coastguards created a clifftop path that closely winds along the coastline, overlooking all potential smuggling coves and bays.
Why was there so much smuggling in the 18th and 19th centuries? Massive import taxes were levied on a vast range of goods including tea, brandy, silks, muslins, and salt, which was essential for the local fishing industry.
The tax burden on the common population was enormous. So, locals turned to smuggling to support their families. Later, smuggling evolved into a profitable enterprise, not just a means of survival.
Over time, the coastguards’ responsibilities shifted to monitoring the sea to ensure the safety of passing ships.
A continuous coastal footpath opened up in the 1970s for recreational purposes.
Difficulty
The difficulty of the South West Coast Path depends on several factors, most of which are within your control.
- Total length of the trek
- Length of individual stages
- Cumulative elevation gain and loss. The number of climbs and descents along the stage.
- Rest days
- Luggage transfer
- Weather
The SWCP largely traces packed dirt paths, grassy footpaths (across fields, or on the edge of fields), staircase-like trails with multiple steps, and sometimes sand dunes. When crossing private farmland, you’ll often need to climb over stiles.
The trail is rarely rocky or uneven, but there are some exceptions like the stretch from St. Ives to Pendeen.
In dry and stable conditions, the trail is easy-moderate. I didn’t encounter any precarious, or dangerous sections.
Undulating | Alpine hikers often underestimate coastal trails, assuming they’re easy and flat. In reality, that’s rarely the case. Because much of the trail is undulating, you can expect frequent steep ascents and descents, sometimes in rapid succession.
Livestock Fields | Keep in mind that the South West Coast Path sometimes crosses fields where cattle and sheep graze. When there isn’t a fence barrier, it’s important to quietly and respectfully cross the pasture, without disturbing the animals. On the several occasions that I crossed livestock fields, I’m happy to report that the cattle seemed completely unbothered.
Overgrown Paths | Certain sections are overgrown, especially when hiking between hedges. For that reason, I was more comfortable hiking in pants, because my skin gets easily irritated.
Waymarking & Navigation | From what I have experienced of the trail, the path is very well-marked and easy to follow. All junctions are signed with an acorn waymark.
When to Hike
The best time to hike the South West Coast Path is between May and September. Our trip commenced in late June and ended in mid-July.
We recommend avoiding the school summer holidays, which run from late July to the end of August. During that period, room rates skyrocket.
During shoulder-season months, you just have to be mindful of the ferry crossings, as some ferries do not operate outside of the main season.
Where to Start and End the South West Coast Path
The South West Coast Path starts in Minehead in Somerset and ends in Poole Harbour in Dorset. However, most hikers will neither start in Minehead nor end in Poole Harbour.
The trail can be accessed from many points along the route, as the trail connects numerous villages and towns. Choosing your starting point is the single most important decision when planning a multi-day trek along the South West Coast Path.
We Started in Westward Ho!
I can’t tell you where to begin, but I can share why we chose to start in Westward Ho!
Kati and I gravitate to rugged, cliffed coastlines. We wanted to hike the most dramatic, untamed, and scenic stretch of the South West Coast Path. The consensus is that the Atlantic-facing North Devon and North Cornwall stages boast the most impressive seascapes.
If that criteria resonates with you, then either start in Westward Ho! or Clovelly.
The Westward Ho-Clovelly stage contrasts nicely to the rest of the trail, because it mostly follows woodland paths across forested cliffs. However, compared to the postcard-worthy villages that dot the South West Coast Path, Westward Ho falls a bit flat. Therefore, I recommend skipping this stage if you want to shorten the hike further.
Other possible starting points: Minehead (official starting point), Bude (Cornwall Coast Path starting point), St. Ives (Penwith Peninsula starting point).
We Ended in St. Ives
We ended our South West Coast Path hike in St. Ives, one of the most picturesque seaside towns in Cornwall. With its quintessential holiday atmosphere and beaches, St. Ives is a lovely place to end the trip.
However, here are a few alternative ending points to consider, if you plan on starting in Westward Ho!, Clovelly, or even Bude.
Padstow | With its gourmet restaurants and lively shops, Padstow is an ideal place to toast the end of your 1-week adventure.
Newquay | If you want to extend the hike by two days, take a rest day in Padstow, and then continue to Newquay. Be warned: after days of peaceful, pastoral walking, the buzz and size of Newquay can feel like a rude awakening. One of the key benefits of ending in Newquay is the convenience of its transport links (train station, bus station, and airport).
Other Possible Ending Points | Lizard Point, Falmouth, St. Austell (train station), Plymouth (train station), Exmouth, Poole Harbour (official ending point)
South West Coast Path Itinerary
The official website breaks up the entire SWCP route into 52 stages (8 weeks):
- Week 1: Minehead to Westward Ho! (Exmoor and North Devon): 7 days, 87 miles
- Week 2: Westward Ho! to Padstow (Hartland and North Cornwall coast): 7 days, 78 miles
- Week 3: Padstow to St Ives (Cornwall’s Atlantic coast): 6 days, 66 miles
- Week 4. St Ives to The Lizard (the far west of Cornwall): 6 days, 69 miles
- Week 5: Lizard to Par (South Cornwall): 6 days, 72 miles
- Week 6. Par to Torcross (South East Cornwall, Plymouth and the South Hams): 7 days, 94 miles
- Week 7: Torcross to Seaton (South and East Devon): 6 days, 72 miles
- Week 8: Week 8. Seaton to South Haven Point (Dorset’s Jurassic Coast): 7 days, 92 miles
Our 2-Week South West Coast Itinerary
Day 0 | Arrival Day in Westward Ho! We stayed in the Waterfront Inn.
Day 1 | Westward Ho! to Clovelly. We stayed in the Red Lion Inn.
Day 2 | Clovelly to Harland Quay. We stayed in Hartland Quay Hotel (book early).
Day 3 | Harland Quay to Bude. We stayed in The Beach.
Day 4 | Bude to Crackington Haven. We recommend staying in The Coombe Barton Inn (delicious food and perfect location).
Day 5 | Crackington Haven to Tintagel. We stayed in Tintagel Arms B&B.
Day 6 | Tintagel to Port Isaac. We stayed in the Slipway B&B.
Day 7 | Port Isaac to Padstow. We stayed in Seashells Apartment (with laundry machine).
Day 8 | Rest Day in Padstow
Day 9 | Padstow to Porthcothan. We stayed in MacDonald’s Farm.
Day 10 | Porthcothan to Newquay. We stayed in OYO Minerva Guesthouse.
Day 11 | Newquay to Perranporth. We recommend staying in Seiners Arms.
Day 12 | Perraporth to Portreath. We stayed in Portreath Arms.
Day 13 | Portreat to St. Ives (with bus short cut). We stayed in Rivendell Guest House.
Day 14 | Depart St. Ives, or stay 1 more night.
Recommended 1-Week Itinerary
After sharing daily impressions of the trail on Instagram (see our “SWCP” and “SWCP 2” story highlights), many of our followers asked for a shorter route.
Personally, I was most captivated by the northern Atlantic stages, because of the feeling of isolation and the dramatic and harsh (almost menacing) scenery of jagged, sea-battered cliffs and contorted strata. I kept thinking that this should be called the Coast of Death, not the smooth granite-studded, caribbean-blue waters of Northern Galicia.
For a 7-day route, I recommend hiking from Westward Ho! (or Clovelly) to Padstow. If you want to extend the trail, end in Newquay.
For an even shorter route (4 days), you could potentially hike from Bude to Padstow, but you’d miss the spectacular stretch of coast that stretches from Hartland Point to Bude.
Beyond Newquay, there are undeniably beautiful stretches and plenty of picture-perfect beaches. Still, I found the section between Newquay and St. Ives less compelling and charming than other parts of the trail.
Getting to the Trailhead
This will of course depend on where you start.
Fly | The closest airports to the South West Coast Path are:
- Cornwall Airport Newquay
- Exeter Airport
- London Gatwick Airport
- London Heathrow Airport
The small airport in Newquay boasts direct flights to/from Spain, Germany, Switzerland, UK and Ireland. Many of these connections are very expensive, but Ryanair operates affordable flights to Newquay from London Stansted, Edinburgh, and Dublin. You can either start your hike directly in Newquay (hiking north or south), or take a series of buses to reach your starting point.
Train | Great Western Railway (GWR) operates high-speed trains to/from the South-West Peninsula.
From London Paddington Station, it’s a 3:30-hour journey to Minehead, a 5-hour journey to Newquay, a 5:40-hour journey to Westward Ho!, and a 6-hour journey to St. Ives. Most of these transit journeys entail a combination of trains and buses.
This is how Kati and I traveled to Westward Ho!
- Train: Gatwick Airport – Reading
- Train: Reading – Exeter St. Davids
- Train: Exeter St. Davids Train Station – Barnstaple Train Station
- Bus: Barnstaple Bus Station – Westward Ho!
We purchased all our train tickets in advance.
Bus | There are bus connections to various destinations along the South West Coast Path. Having traveled by bus from Bristol to Newquay (on a previous trip) and from Newquay to Heathrow Airport (on a previous trip), I would encourage you to travel by train instead, as it’s more comfortable.
More Coastal Hikes in Europe
England:
Spain:
France:
Portugal:
- Fisherman’s Trail in Portugal
- Seven Hanging Valleys Trail in Portugal
- Sintra Coast Day Hike in Portugal
Faroe Islands
Crete:
Malta:
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