The Camiño dos Faros, or the Lighthouse Way, is an extraordinary coastal trail that clings to the Coast of Death from Malpica to Cape Finisterre in Galicia, Northwestern Spain. Though adventurous and not without its challenges, this 200-km village-to-village hike is also quite comfortable, since each stage ends in a village with a range of accommodations: hostels, apartments, guesthouses, and hotels.
Unlike the many Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes, the Camiño dos Faros has no albergues until Muxía, where it intersects with the Camino Finisterre.
I strongly recommend booking all your accommodations in advance. While flexibility is appealing, especially when weather is unpredictable, this trail isn’t one you can approach casually without a clear plan for where you’ll stay each night.
Officially, wild camping is not allowed along the Camiño dos Faros, because the entire trail runs through the Red Natura 2000 network, which encompasses protected natural areas in the European Union. Since there are only a few official campgrounds near the trail, I don’t recommend camping. Accommodations are plentiful and affordable, making an inn-to-inn approach the best way to hike this route.
- Booking and Payment: We booked all our accommodation via Booking.com. All the accommodations we stayed in accepted card payments.
- Breakfast: We tried to book accommodations with breakfast whenever possible to keep mornings simple and stress-free. Breakfast is usually served à la carte and comes at an extra cost. In villages like Muxía, however, this wasn’t needed thanks to the plenty of cafés available.
- Laundry: We did laundry twice during our trek–at Apartamentos Turísticos Playa de Osmo in Corme and O Refuxio do Náufrago in Camelle–both of which offered free laundry facilities, including detergent.
- Water: Tap water is drinkable.
- Lunch: Planning ahead is essential. Depending on the stage, food may not be available along the route. You’ll either need to request a packed lunch from your accommodation or stock up on supplies beforehand.
- Guidebook: Walking the Camino dos Faros
How to Book the Camiño dos Faros
Book a Flight to A Coruña Airport or Santiago-Rosalía de Castro Airport
The nearest airports to Malpica are A Coruña Airport and Santiago-Rosalía de Castro Airport, near Santiago de Compostela. A Coruña is closer to the trail’s starting point, while Santiago’s airport is closer to its conclusion. Overall, either option works equally well, with no major advantage to choosing one over the other.
I explained how to get to Malpica in our Camino dos Faros Trekking Guide.
Book Accommodation
The Lighthouse Way is officially divided into 8 stages. With transit days, the total length of the trip will be 10 days. If you plan on hiking the entire trail, build in a rest day in Muxía at the latest.
Day 1 | Stay in Malpica: Fonte Do Fraile (where we stayed), Hostal J.B (beachfront guesthouse), Apartamento con vistas al mar (1-bedroom apartment), or APARTAMENTO MENCER (2-bedroom apartment).
Day 2 | Stay in Barizo: Casa da Vasca (where we stayed) or As Garzas (a Michelin-star restaurant and guesthouse)
Day 3 | Stay in Corme: Apartamentos Playa de Osmo (where we stayed)
Day 4 | Stay in Laxe: O Náutico Laxe sea view (where we stayed), Cabanas Narea (modern bungalow apartments), Faro de Laxe Pisos Turisticos (3-bedroom apartment), or Hotel Playa De Laxe (3-star hotel)
Day 5 | Stay in Camelle: O Refuxio do Náufrago (where we stayed) or Casa El Rincón de Alberto. Or Stay in Arou: Os Faros Pisos Turísticos (apartments) and Apartamentos María de Lucía (2-bedroom apartment)
Day 6 | Stay in Camariñas: O Mar de Preciosa (where we stayed), Hotel Puerto Arnela (2-star hotel), Hospedium Hotel Barómetro de Camariñas (3-star hotel)
Day 7 | Stay in Muxía: Albergue Bela Muxía (where we stayed), Apartamentos Costa da Morte Muxía (studios with wash machines), Albergue Arribada (private and dormitory rooms), or Solpor do Coído (guesthouse).
Day 8 | Stay in Lires: LIRESCA (where we stayed), Aparthotel Ría de Lires (apartments), Casa Raúl (old stone guesthouse), or Cabanas da Ría (bungalows).
Day 8 | Stay at Cape Finisterre: Hotel El Semáforo de Finisterre (where we stayed). Alternatively, stay in Fisterra: Hotel Costa Da Morte (2-star hotel), Porto Real Hotel (3-star hotel with bright sea-view rooms), Hospedium H Cabo Sport (3-star stylish hotel), or Hotel Faro de Finisterre (2-star hotel).
Day 9 | Transit Day to Santiago de Compostela and A Coruña
Stay in Santiago de Compostela: Moure Hotel (2-star hotel), Hotel Montes (hotel near Santiago Cathedral), or Hotel Pazo De Altamira (3-star hotel)
Or, Stay in A Coruña: Noro Plaza (4-star aparthotel), Hotel Riazor (4-star beachfront hotel), or La Gallega by Upper Luxury Housing (comfortable 1-3 bedroom apartments).
Day 10 | Departure Day
Good to Know
Some stages are exceptionally long, particularly Stage 6 from Camariñas to Muxía (34.2 km). Consider splitting these stages over two days or shortening the route by taking a taxi or bus.
Stage 1 officially ends at Niñóns Beach. The closest accommodation to Niñóns Beach, Casa vacacional Niñones, is located 2.3 km inland from the coast. To avoid this detour, we stayed in Barizo.
Staying in Barizo creates a domino effect on the following stages. Stage 2 officially ends in Ponteceso (Pensión Teyma), but if you begin the stage in Barizo, it is more practical to stay in Corme.
Arrival in Malpica: Where to Stay Before Stage 1
Malpica de Bergantiños is the official starting point of the Camiño dos Faros and marks the northeastern edge of the Costa da Morte. This coastal town boasts a fishing port, long sandy beach (Praia Area Maior), and a smattering of restaurants and accommodations.
We stayed at Fonte Do Fraile, a quiet 3-star hotel on the western end of Malpica, featuring clean, comfortable rooms and a cafeteria that serves an à la carte breakfast from 8 a.m. The check-in process was seamless. Overall, we were very satisfied with our experience.
Fonte Do Fraile doesn’t offer dinner, but the town center has several restaurants and cafés. Since many aren’t open daily, it’s best to have backup options. For dinner, check out Michelin-listed Material (Google Maps), Restaurante O Burato (Google Maps), and Restaurante San Francisco (Google Maps)
More Places to Stay in Malpica | Hostal J.B (beachfront guesthouse), Apartamento con vistas al mar (1-bedroom apartment), APARTAMENTO MENCER (2-bedroom apartment), or GARA MALPICA, terraza al mar (1-bedroom apartment).
Stage 1: Malpica to Barizo – Accommodation Options
Stage 1 from Malpica to Barizo is only 12 km. It’s a short and sweet start to the Lighthouse Way. Enjoy this leisurely stage with a gourmet meal at As Garzas, a Michelin-star restaurant and guesthouse with several elegantly-furnished rooms. Either stay in As Garzas, or neighboring Casa da Vasca.
We stayed in Casa da Vasca, which offers small, but comfortable rooms, some of which have a sea view. Hikers enjoy on-site dining, even on days when the restaurant is officially closed to outside guests. We enjoyed a decadent lunch at As Garzas, followed by a light dinner at Casa da Vasca, which served the best salad of the entire trip.
Casa da Vasca begins serving its à la carte breakfast menu at 8 am. We chose the most generous option at 10 EUR per person, which included eggs, bacon, toast with marmalade and butter, fresh orange juice, coffee, and a platter of cold cuts and cheese. The portions were so generous that we were able to make two sandwiches for lunch. If you prefer a lighter breakfast, I’m sure they’d happily prepare takeaway sandwiches upon request.
Stage 2: Barizo to Corme – Where to Stay Overnight
Corme is a small coastal village, located at the mouth of the Ría de Corme y Laxe estuary.
We stayed at Apartamentos Playa de Osmo, an apartment complex above Praia do Osmo. The hotel is easily reached by a footpath branching off the waterfront promenade, though this path does not appear on digital maps.
With a wrap-around balcony and a fully-equipped kitchen, our sea-view apartment was an absolute dream. I recommend picking up breakfast supplies from a grocery store before checking in, as store hours are limited and you’ll want to avoid running errands in the morning. They provide 2 capsules for coffee.
Had we not missed the grocery store’s opening hours, we would have happily dined in the apartment, especially after the demanding second stage. Instead, we had dinner at the nearby Restaurante Miramar (Google Maps).
Apartamentos Playa de Osmo also offers complimentary laundry facilities in the basement, which we gladly made use of.
Stage 3: Corme to Laxe – Accommodation Recommendations
Laxe, situated across the Ría de Corme y Laxe from Corme, is a lively village featuring a large crescent-shaped beach backed by dunes, a 14th-century Gothic church (Igrexa de Santa María da Atalaia), and a string of beachfront eateries.
We stayed at O Náutico Laxe sea view, which faces Rúa Rosalía de Castro, Laxe’s main street, though the hotel’s main entrance is on Rua Vista Alegre. We weren’t able to dine at the hotel restaurant because of a private event, but we enjoyed a fantastic meal at Restaurante Mar De Fondo (Google Maps), where the Pulpo a Feira was truly exceptional.
Our room at O Náutico Laxe sea view was bright, spotless, and thoughtfully equipped with a coffee maker. The breakfast was authentically Spanish: orange juice, coffee, a slice of delicious cake, and bread with olive oil and pan con tomate. While not exactly a feast, it was enough to leave us satisfied.
Top places to stay in Laxe | Cabanas Narea (modern bungalow apartments), Faro de Laxe Pisos Turisticos (3-bedroom apartment), Hotel Playa De Laxe (3-star hotel), and Apartamento Xanela o Mar (2-bedroom apartment).
Stage 4: Laxe to Camelle – Where to Stay
Stage 4 from Laxe to Camelle runs along an exceptionally beautiful, granite-embedded stretch of the Atlantic Coast. Camelle, nestled in a tranquil bay, offers a few eateries and accommodations.
We stayed at O Refuxio do Náufrago, and I can confidently say it lives up to every one of its glowing reviews. This impeccably-run guesthouse offers free laundry facilities, a communal dining area with complimentary tea and coffee, an outdoor terrace, and lovingly-furnished rooms.
The owner sets out a generous breakfast spread, including several homemade cakes, the night before, allowing hikers to enjoy breakfast whenever they like the next morning.
If O Refuxio do Náufrago is fully-booked, check out Casa El Rincón de Alberto and all available Camelle accommodations.
Alternatively, you can press on to the picturesque village of Arou, the official ending point of stage 4. Check out Os Faros Pisos Turísticos (apartments) and Apartamentos María de Lucía (2-bedroom apartment)
Stage 5: Camelle to Camariñas – Where to Stay Overnight
The route to Camariñas takes you past Faro Vilán, one of the most photogenic lighthouses along the Costa da Morte.
We stayed in O Mar de Preciosa, which was one of our favorite accommodations along the whole trail. We particularly loved our room, with its seaview balcony terrace and boho-style furnishings. The ground-floor honor bar offered a nice selection of drinks, including craft beers, along with bags of Bonilla a la Vista potato chips.
Self check-in instructions were clearly communicated in advance. Although we didn’t meet any staff until the following morning, we were able to communicate seamlessly through the Booking.com app, and the team promptly addressed our questions and requests, including arranging a taxi transfer.
Breakfast is available for an additional charge, and it is prepared with great care.
More accommodations in Camariñas | Hotel Puerto Arnela (2-star hotel), Hospedium Hotel Barómetro de Camariñas (3-star hotel), or Hospedium Hotel Devalar Do Mar (3-star hotel)
Stage 6: Camariñas to Muxía – Accommodation Options
The longest stage of the Lighthouse Way (34.2 km) traces the Ría de Camariñas estuary from Camariñas to Muxía. For most hikers, it’s wise to shorten part of this route by taking a taxi or bus.
Muxía is likely the liveliest town along the entire route, largely due to the steady flow of Camino Finisterre pilgrims.
We stayed in the well-run Albergue Bela Muxía, which offers private and dormitory rooms. The staff was so accommodating and kind. Though simple, our room was spotless and well situated on an upper floor, offering views of the village. The Albergue features a communal dining area and kitchen as well as laundry facilities (for a fee).
For those that don’t want to cook, I highly recommend dining at Lonxa d’Alvaro (Google Maps), which serves locally sourced fish, seafood, and grilled meats. And for breakfast, we really enjoyed Cafetería Antoxiños (Google Maps), which opens bright and early at 7 a.m.
If you’d like to include a rest day in Muxía and treat yourself to a spa experience, consider booking two nights at the Parador Costa da Morte.
More accommodations in Muxía | Apartamentos Costa da Morte Muxía (studios with wash machines), Albergue Arribada (private and dormitory rooms), and Solpor do Coído (guesthouse).
Stage 7: Muxía to Lires – Where to Stay
Stage 7 of the Camiño dos Faros is a demanding stage with many rolling ascents and descents. The official endpoint of the stage is Praia de Nemiña, popular with surfers. Good accommodations are limited, so most trekkers will likely want to continue on to Lires.
Located at the head of the Lires estuary, Lires (Santo Estevo de Lires) is a lovely village with many Hórreos (stone granaries on stilts). Like Muxía, Lires is located along the Camino Finisterre pilgrimage route.
We stayed in LIRESCA, an excellent hotel and restaurant with comfortable rooms and kind owners, who patiently and happily answered our many questions. Breakfast is à la carte, and it’s also possible to order takeaway sandwiches for lunch.
More accommodations in Lires | Aparthotel Ría de Lires (apartments), Casa Raúl (old stone guesthouse), or Cabanas da Ría (bungalows).
Stage 8: Lires to Cape Finisterre – Accommodation Options at the End of the Trail
The Way of the Lighthouses officially ends at Cape Finisterre, home to a lighthouse, café, restaurant, and hotel. The hotel occupies a former maritime signal station, or “Semaphore,” built in the late 19th century to communicate with naval vessels.
Cape Finisterre, or Cabo Fisterra, is also the final destination for many pilgrims walking the Camino de Santiago, and watching the sunset from this windswept headland has become a shared ritual for hikers of both the Camino and the Lighthouse Way.
The tradition carries a resonance that goes far beyond its raw beauty. This headland is a deeply layered sacred landscape, where Celtic sun worship, fertility rites, and later Christian adaptations converge. Ending the trek here feels like standing at a crossroads of myth, faith, and nature’s majesty.
Kati and I decided to treat ourselves with a stay at Hotel El Semáforo de Finisterre, a fitting and memorable way to end this incredible journey. If you’d like to do the same, book as early as possible.
Overall, we thoroughly enjoyed our stay. Despite not having eye-level windows, our room felt bright and welcoming, complete with a relaxing bathtub, a Nespresso machine, and a fan for added comfort.
If there was one area for improvement, it would be breakfast. Although included in the room rate, the pre-set meal served on a tiered stand felt underwhelming for the price. Offering a few made-to-order choices, such as eggs or waffles, would have elevated the experience.
If you’re unable to secure an overnight stay in Hotel El Semáforo de Finisterre, continue your journey to the village of Finisterre (Fisterra) either on foot or by taxi.
Finisterre Accommodations | Hotel Costa Da Morte (2-star hotel), Porto Real Hotel (3-star hotel with bright sea-view rooms), Hotel SempreFisterra (guesthouse), Hospedium H Cabo Sport (3-star stylish hotel), or Hotel Faro de Finisterre (2-star hotel).
Where to Stay in Santiago de Compostela and A Coruña
At the end of the trail, you will likely need to travel to either Santiago de Compostela or A Coruña, depending on which airport you are flying from.
I shared how we traveled back to Santiago and A Coruña in my Camino dos Faros Trekking Guide.
Where to Stay in Santiago de Compostela | Moure Hotel (2-star hotel), Hotel Montes (hotel near Santiago Cathedral), Hotel Pazo De Altamira (3-star hotel), or Hotel Palacio del Carmen (5-star hotel). All Santiago de Compostela accommodations.
Where to Stay in A Coruña | Noro Plaza (4-star aparthotel), Hotel Riazor (4-star beachfront hotel), or La Gallega by Upper Luxury Housing (comfortable 1-3 bedroom apartments).
We stayed in Hotel Plaza. Looking back, it would have been better to stay in the historic center, near Praza de Maria Pita and the Galerias da Marina, and Orzan Beach.
More Hikes in Europe
Coastal Multi-Day Hikes:
- Fisherman’s Trail in Portugal
- South West Coast Path in England
Treks:
Hiking in Spain:
- Our Favorite Hikes in Spain
- Best Hikes in Tenerife
- Best Hikes in Mallorca
- Best Hikes in Picos de Europa
- Best Hikes in Gran Canaria
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